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- 1. All Saints, Ashbocking, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The centre of the present village of Ashbocking lies along the B1077 Ipswich to Debenham road, immediately to the N of its crossroads with the B1078 Wickham Market to Needham Market road and the some 6.5 miles N of the centre of Ipswich. The B1078 follows the line of a Roman road here. An older centre, consisting of the church with Ashbocking Hall alongside it and a few dwellings lies a mile to the W. The landscape here is the typical arable farmland of the East Anglian plain, its flatness tempered by the valley of a stream that runs westwards just S of the church to join the river Gipping near Needham Market.
- 2. St Mary, Ashby, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Ashby is in Lothingland, the Nernmost hundred of Suffolk. It is a tongue of land enclosed by the Waveney, which turns N after leaving Beccles so that it may reach the sea at Yarmouth rather than Lowestoft. The land here is low-lying and arable, and its villages have usually managed to resist encroachments by their giant neighbours to the N and S. Ashby church now stands alone in farmland, 0.4 mile S of a small, dispersed cluster of houses that is all there is of Ashby village. The medieval village was in the land immediately to the N of the church, and was deserted byc.1600. N of the present village is Ashby Warren and the Fritton Decoy - a lake fitted with nets for catching wild duck. Both the warren and the decoy appear to date from the 16thc.
- 3. St John the Baptist, Badingham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Badingham is a village in E Suffolk, 3 miles N of Framlingham and 6 miles NW of Saxmundham. A stream runs from N to S through the village, joining the river Alde at the southern end of the High Street, and the lie of the land is determined by these two valleys. Immediately to the S is a Roman road, now the A1120. The church is towards the northern end on the village and stands on steeply rising land on the E bank of the stream. The ground rises from W to E here, and has not been terraced for the building of the church, so that the nave slopes markedly up towards the E, and the chancel is reached by three steps. The church consists of a nave with S porch, a chancel with a modern S vestry and a W tower. The lower storey of the flint and septaria tower is 12thc., with long and short quoins, no buttresses, simple lancets to the S and W and a tower arch with roll-moulded jambs but a remodelled, pointed arch. The upper storey has Y-tracery bell-openings ofc.1300 and an embattled parapet. The nave has the remains of 12thc. shafting at the western angles, but there are no bases or capitals and the shafts are not recorded here. It thus belongs to the 12thc., but has been considerably altered. The walls are of flint in their lower parts but have been raised considerably with brick. The N doorway is blocked and the S, ofc.1300, is protected by a knapped flint porch of 1486, lavishly decorated with flushwork and provided with a battlemented parapet and a niche for a statue. The nave windows include a 13thc. lancet on the N side and another on the S, along with 15thc. windows at the normal height. When the walls were raised, windows were added to light the rood at the E. These were bequeathed by Edward Rous in 1506. A high window was installed at the W end of the N wall in the 18thc., to light a choir gallery (now gone). The chancel is of knapped flint with 14thc. flowing lateral windows and a 15thc. E window. A priest's doorway is set in the S wall, and on the N side are two large tombs; one of a member of the Carbonell family, perhaps Sir John (d.1423), and the other of William Cotton (d.1616) and his wife Lucie (d.1621). The chancel was rebuilt by E. L.Blackburne (1879-80), and at the same time new roofs were added and the church was re-seated. Repairs were carried out under the supervision of J. R. Sullivan in 1976-77. In addition to the remains of Romanesque fabric described above the church also houses two carved voussoirs set in the porch and a loose scallop capital and chevron voussoir.
- 4. Holy Trinity, Barsham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Holy Trinity looks conventional from the S, bizarre from the E and a complete mess from the N. It has a thatched nave of flint with one 12thc. window in the N wall, with a head reportedly of Caen stone. The S nave doorway has a flint porch, the N is unprotected. A two-bay N aisle was added as a chapel to St Catherine by F.C. Eden in 1908; Perpendicular in style but low and without a clerestorey. It does not extend to the W end, terminating E of the N doorway. On the exterior it is of rendered flint with a low, almost flat, lead roof. The W tower is round and has three phases. The lowest level is of flint with slightly pointed lancets to the cardinal directions. The E lancet is inside the church; the W has moulded decoration. Below it is an inserted Perpendicular W window. The next stage is of flint with signs of large blocked windows visible in the stonework. The top stage, probably 16thc., employs decorative bands of brick on the flint and has Perpendicular bell openings. The chamfered parapet is of brick.
- 5. St Peter, Baylham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Baylham stands in wooded arable land among rolling hills midway between Ipswich and Stowmarket. The church stands in the centre of the village and Baylham Hall is 0.7 miles away to the W. St Peter's is a flint church of nave, chancel with N and S transepts and W tower. The N nave doorway indicates the 12thc. origin of the fabric, but new windows were installed on the S in the 14thc. and on the N in the 15thc. All were restored in the 19thc., and the S doorway and its porch are 19thc. too. The chancel was rebuilt by Frederick Barnes in 1870, including the chancel arch, and both transepts were added at that date. The N transept houses the organ and a vestry, and the S is fitted with pews but no altar. The tower is unbuttressed and of knapped flint; perhaps 13thc. in origin but remodelled and heightened in the 14thc. It has small lancets high in the lower storey and a 14thc. W window and bell-openings. The parapet is battlemented. The blocked N doorway is the only Romanesque feature.
- 6. St Nicholas, Bedfield, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Bedfield is a sprawling village of some 300 inhabitants in the flat arable farmland of the East Anglian plain. It is remote from major centres, being 14 miles N of Ipswich and 10 miles SE of Diss. The church is more or less in the geographical centre of the village, but is surrounded by farmland and neighboured by the farm itself. The hall site is 91 metres (100 yards) to the N. St Nicholas's church comprises a nave with a S porch, chancel and W tower. The flint nave has a 12thc. N doorway, which, with the layered masonry, indicates its date of construction. The nave windows are all 15th-16thc. now. The S doorway and its porch are 13thc., as are the chancel arch and the niches to either side of it. There is a SE rood stair with a 13thc. pointed arch. Some of the chancel masonry appears 12thc., but the chancel arch, piscina and N window are 13thc., indicating a major remodelling. The S windows are 15th-16thc., while the E window dates from 1872. The knapped flint W tower is 15thc., with a W doorway with flowers in the arch and niches above, diagonal W buttresses and an embattled parapet. There is flushwork decoration on the plinth, buttresses and parapet. The only Romanesque sculpture surviving is on the N doorway, now partly obscured by a shrubbery.
- 7. St Mary, Benhall, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Benhall is in central E Suffolk, 1½ miles SW of Saxmundham in rolling arable land on the E side of the Alde valley. St Mary's is a flint and septaria church with a nave with a S porch and a large transeptal N chapel, a chancel with a separately roofed N chapel that communicates with the transept, and a W tower. The nave has a chevron-decorated 12thc. S doorway under a 15thc. porch of flint and knapped flint. The nave windows are 15thc. and there is a wooden W gallery that partly conceals the tall, pointed tower arch. The transept and N chapel were built in the 19thc. to house a vestry and schoolroom. The organ now occupies the N transept, and the entrance arch from the chancel to the N chapel has been blocked. The chapel, and the space in the transept behind the organ are now given over to vestry uses, and are accessed through a doorway at the E end of the N chancel wall. The chancel windows are in a 15thc.style, as are the N windows of the 19thc. transept and chapel. On the S side of the chancel, the priest's doorway is protected by a little gabled porch, also 19thc. The nave, chancel, transept and chapel all have diagonal buttresses with flushwork panels. The two-storey W tower is unbuttressed and has long and short quoins at the SE, NW and NE angles and a shallow buttress-like projection on the S wall marking the bell stair. This also has long and short quoins, and the lower part of the tower thus probably dates from the later 11thc., although Mortlock suspected that it was substantially a 19thc. rebuild. At the SW angle the long quoins have been replaced in brick, and there is a later inserted W doorway. The upper storey has 15thc. bell-openings, and the inserted W window is also Perpendicular. The battlemented parapet has flushwork decoration. The only Romanesque sculpture is on the elaborate S doorway.
- 8. St Mary, Bentley, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Bentley is a large village in S central Suffolk, 5½ miles SW of Ipswich and only a mile from the A12 and Capel St Mary, the nearest town. The village itself has a good deal of newer housing, but the church, the hall and Bentley Park are a mile to the N. The country here is arable farmland, with plantation around the park and older woodland nearby. St Mary’s is a flint church comprising a nave with S porch, chancel and W tower. The nave was given a N aisle with its own double pitched roof and a three-bay arcade by Benjamin Ferrey of London in 1858, and this extends E as a pseudo-chapel (actually an organ room and vestry) with an arch to the chancel. Ferrey’s work included a major restoration of the nave, and the chancel was reconstructed during the incumbency of Canon Beauchamp (1879-99), but some older fabric remains. The nave has a 19thc. S doorway that includes two 12thc. chevron voussoirs in its inner order, and the chancel has a N window, refaced outside but retaining its deep splay within. There is a loose chevron voussoir in the vestry. The tower is 15thc. with diagonal W buttresses, a polygonal S stair and an embattled parapet with flushwork decoration.
- 9. All Saints, Beyton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Beyton lies less than five miles E of the centre of Bury St Edmunds, just S of the A14. The village lies in arable farmland, and the church is 0.4 miles W of the hall site. All Saints has a round (actually oval) W tower, a nave with a N aisle added and a chancel. A parish room and vestry annexe was added on the S side of the chancel in 1973. Construction is of flint throughout. The tower has a plinth course and big radial buttresses have been added at the NW and SW. The lower W window is 15thc. as is the tower arch, and the plain parapet is an addition of 1780, with brick bell-openings. There are signs of render on the tower but not the parapet or the buttresses. The windows on the S side of the nave are 15thc., and there is a 14thc. S doorway under a 15thc. porch. The three-bay N aisle was added in the 1853-54, and a 12thc. doorway re-set in its outer wall. This has no porch and is now partly obscured by a shrub. The chancel arch is 19thc. too, and while the western part of the chancel is 14thc. it was extended eastwards in 1884-85, with an E window by Sir Arthur Blomfield. The 19thc. aisle and chancel extension both have windows in a 15thc. Perpendicular style. The 1853-54 rebuild was by John Johnson of Bury St Edmunds. There was an earlier restoration by Howe, Mortimer and Azelwood in 1834-35 when a gallery was added at the W end of the nave. The only Romanesque feature is the re-set N doorway.
- 10. St Mary, Blundeston, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Blundeston is in Lothingland, the northernmost hundred of Suffolk. It is a tongue of land enclosed by the Waveney which turns N after leaving Beccles so that it may reach the sea at Yarmouth rather than Lowestoft. The land here is low-lying and arable, and its villages have usually managed to resist encroachments by their giant neighbours to the N and S. Blundeston could be considered a suburb of Lowestoft, but it has not been overrun as Oulton was. It is a good-sized village of some 300 inhabitants, most of whom commute to Yarmouth or Lowestoft. Blundeston prison, at the southern edge of the village, dates from 1963. The church and hall are half a mile apart on either side of the village centre.
- 11. All Saints, Blyford, Suffolk, England
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Parish church All Saints is a flint church with a single, aisleless nave and chancel with no chancel arch, and a W tower. The nave is 12thc. with N and S doorways in-situ, the N under a 15thc. porch. It has been rendered inside and out, and buttressed with brick at the SW. The tower is Perpendicular with diagonal buttresses and decorative flushwork. Romanesque sculpture is found on the two nave doorways.
- 12. St Michael, Boulge, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Boulge is in the E of the county, 2½ miles NW of the centre of Woodbridge. The landscape is the usual arable farmland of the E Anglian plain; not entirely flat and drained by the network of streams running into the Deben estuary at Martlesham Creek, S of Woodbridge. The name is said to derive from the French 'bouge', meaning an uncultivated heathland, although the Domesday survey give a picture of many small parcels of ploughland. The parish covers approximately a square mile in a two-mile long strip running NE to SW, but it is sparsely populated and there is no village. The community now consists of just 13 dwellings in all; just a couple of farms and a few scattered cottages. The church stands to the N of a small wood in the former parkland surrounding the site of Boulge Hall, demolished in 1956. The normal access to the church is from the S, and from this aspect it appears almost entirely Victorian. St Michael's has a W tower, a nave with a S aisle and a chancel with a large S vestry. Nave and chancel are of flint, of equal width and roofed in one. There is no chancel arch. A plain blocked N lancet in the chancel indicates a date in the early 13thc., but for the rest, the N windows of nave and chancel are ofc.1300 (Y-tracery),c.1320 (reticulated) or 15thc., the N nave doorway is 14thc., and the E wall of the chancel dates from 1858. On the south, the nave aisle is of three bays; the two at the E with a normal pentise roof, and the west bay taller and with its own gabled roof, built as a Fitzgerald family chapel. Edward Fitzgerald, translator of the Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam, is buried in the churchyard. The chancel also has a transeptal vestry and organ chamber. This work on the S of the church was carried out in three campaigns, in 1858 (by W. G. and E. H. Habershon), in 1867 (by W. G. Habershon and A. Pite), and in 1895 (by S. Gambier Parry of Wminster). In each case the patron was the owner of the Hall; J. P. Fitzgerald for the two earlier works and Mr and Mrs Holmes White for the latest campaign. In each case too, knapped flint facings were used. The Tudor tower is of brick with an embattled parapet and a pointed segmental headed tower arch. Maintenance work to the fabric was carried out in 1978-81 by A. W. Anderson of Norwich (roofs), in 1981 (N wall) and in 1983-84 (tower). Boulge has no Romanesque fabric, but is significant in housing a font said to be an export from Tournai.
- 13. All Saints, Bradfield Combust, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Bradfield Combust straddles the A134, Bury St Edmunds to Sudbury road, some 5 miles S of Bury. This was a Roman road, but is now an important thoroughfare that divides the church, Church Farm and the Manger public house, on the W side, from the hall and its park on the E. The village takes its name from the burning of the hall, one of the Abbot of St Edmundsbury’s residences, by disaffected tenants in 1327. The present hall is a 19thc. building, surrounded by a park planted by the Rev. Arthur Young (d.1759), father of the celebrated agriculturalist and political economist of the same name. The surrounding country is the typical rolling farmland of this part of W Suffolk.
- 14. New St Mary, Braiseworth, Suffolk, England
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Private house, formerly parish church Braiseworth is in rolling arable farmland in N central Suffolk, 1½ miles S of Eye. It lies to the E of the Roman road from Ipswich to Diss, now the A140, but there is now no village centre, only the old and new churches (both now redundant), an orchard, Priory farm and a few widely dispersed houses on the lanes round about. Taking Priory farm as the centre, the land falls to the E to the valley of the river Dove, a stream that flows NE to join the river Waveney near Hoxne on the Norfolk border.
- 15. Old St Mary, Braiseworth, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Braiseworth is in rolling arable farmland in N central Suffolk, 1½ miles S of Eye. It lies to the E of the Roman road from Ipswich to Diss, now the A140, but there is now no village centre, only the old and new churches (both now redundant), an orchard, Priory farm and a few widely dispersed houses on the lanes round about. Taking Priory farm as the centre, the land falls to the E to the valley of the river Dove, a stream that flows NE to join the river Waveney near Hoxne on the Norfolk border. The medieval church of St Mary, Braiseworth was partly demolished in 1857 for the building of a new church by E. B. Lamb half a mile to the NW, alongside the road. Lamb used the nave used doorways of the old church in the building of the new one (see Braiseworth, New St Mary). The remains of the old church stand in Priory farm now, close to the farmhouse and other buildings. The old graveyard remained in use long after 1857, but now serves as grazing land for sheep. All that remains of the church is the chancel; the nave has been demolished and the W end closed off with a brick wall with a large doorway for entry and brick and flint buttresses for stability. The chancel is of flint with mortar render and is diagonally buttressed at the E end. There is a plain 12thc. lancet and a small 14thc. lancet with an ogee head in the N wall, and a 15thc. two-light window and a 13thc. priest’s doorway in the S. At the E is a two-light Y-tracery window ofc.1300. When Cautley visited before 1937 some of the fittings were still in-situ. The church stands on private farmland and is not accessible without permission. The author and the CRSBI would like to thank the owner for allowing access to the site. There is no Romanesque sculpture here now.
- 16. St Edmund, Bromeswell, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Bromeswell is a village in SE Suffolk. The nearest town is Woodbridge, two miles to the W on the other side of the river Deben, which could be forded near the present Wilford bridge. Bromeswell lies on relatively high and fertile ground surrounded by low-lying heathland (to the S) and marshland (to the W). The early Anglo-Saxon site of Sutton Hoo is a mile to the SW, alongside the Deben.
- 17. St Peter, Bruisyard, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Bruisyard is in E Suffolk, 4 miles NW of Saxmundham and 3 miles NE of Framlington. The village is on rising ground overlooking the river Alde; mostly pasture around the village but with Bruisyard Wood, an ancient forest replanted with softwood in the 1960s, to the NE. The church is in the centre of the village and the hall is at its Eern end. This was originally Roke Hall and was converted for used as a Priory of Poor Clares in 1366. Further details of its history will be found in VII History below. St Peter's church consists of a nave with a S porch, a chancel with a large S chapel and a round W tower, all of flint. The nave is 12thc., and the original N doorway survives, now blocked. The S doorway is mid-13thc. and has a post-medieval brick and timber rendered porch. The nave windows are all replacements, dating from the 15thc and perhaps the 18thc. The chancel arch is 13thc.-14thc., and the chancel has the remains of a 14thc. piscina. The S chapel was added as a funerary chapel for the Hare family in the reign of Elizabeth I. It was later used as a vestry and its conversion for use as a parish room began in 2004. The W tower is said to be Anglo-Saxon (church guide), although Pevsner labels it Norman. The exterior shows a single storey, although the lower part is clearly a different build from the upper. In the lower part, some courses are laid in herringbone fashion, and at the top of this section the walls bulge out and have been repaired with red brick. Above the bulge, the tower ascends more regularly and no herringbone is visible in the coursing. The top is flat, without a parapet. There is a large, pointed lancet inserted at the W, and the bell-openings are 15thc.
- 18. St Lawrence, Brundish, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Brundish is towards the N of E Suffolk, in a hilly arable region of dispersed settlements. It is 4 miles N of Framlingham and 9 miles SW of Halesworth. The old centre was clustered around the church and Brundish Hall immediately to the NE, with a second nucleus at Brundish Street, a mile to the NW, centred on Brundish House. Brundish Hall was demolished in the 1920s, and reputedly shipped to the USA to be rebuilt there, so the church stands alone in its graveyard, and Brundish Street now represents the centre of the village. St Lawrence's has a 12thc. W tower of flint with ashlar quoins. It retains traces of round-headed windows, now blocked; one at a low level and a pair at a higher level on its N, S and W faces. On the E face, the more elaborate 12thc. double bell-opening remains higher still, but the other three faces have 15thc. bell-openings at the same level. There is an embattled parapet, also of flint. The tower arch is small, plain and partly blocked with a doorway set in it. The tall nave and chancel are of flint and entirely 15thc. There is a S porch decorated with flushwork and repaired with red brick, and the nave and chancel buttresses also have flushwork decoration. The church is famous for its brasses; a 14thc. brass of Sir Edmund de Burnedissh, a priest, and 16thc. ones to the Colby family. Several of the Brundish brasses were stolen in the 19thc. and that of Sir Francis Colby (c.1570) has since been rediscovered in the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Attempts by the Parish Council to repatriate it have so far been unsuccessful, although the museum has supplied a replica to hang in the church (The Guardian). The church also contains 18thc. box-pews encasing medieval benches, and carved bench-ends. The chancel was restored in the 19thc., and repairs to the church were carried out by C. B. Smith of Woodbridge in 1962-63. Romanesque features recorded here are the tower arch and the east bell-opening.
- 19. All Saints, Chevington, Suffolk, England
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Parish church All Saints' has an aisleless 12thc. nave with one original lancet on the N side and original N and S doorways, the S under a 14thc. wooden porch, heavily restored. The chancel is 13thc., and there is a Perpendicular W tower with diagonal buttresses and flushwork on the plinth. An extra storey has been added above the bell-storey, open to the sky and with battlements and tall crocketed finials on the corner merlons, and this dates from the restoration of the Earl of Bristol, Bishop of Derry,c.1800. Construction is of flint with a brick battlement on the nave. A major restoration took place in 1910, and the chancel was reordered in 1984; the floor had been lowered at the end of the 17thc., and now a horseshoe-shaped brick dais was built up as a communion platform. The only Romanesque sculpture is on the S doorway of c.1200, but the plain N doorway is described here too.
- 20. St Michael, Cookley, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Cookley is in East Suffolk, towards the N, some 2½ miles SW of Halesworth, in the arable boulder-clay plateau typical of High Suffolk. The village comprises just the church, a few cottages and a farm along a by-road that follows the course of a stream that flows eastwards to join the river Blyth at Halesworth. The church and houses are on the rising ground to the N of the stream, while to the S is the woodland of Broomgreen Covert.
- 21. St Mary, Creeting St Mary, Suffolk, England
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Benedictine priory The Creetings are a pair of villages standing in rolling land of mixed cultivation two to three miles E of Stowmarket. There were once four churches; St Mary's, St Olave's, St Peter's and All Saints'. The first two were originally small but discrete alien Benedictine priories, but St Olave's (originally a cell of Grestein) had gone by the 17thc. (although its site has been excavated recently). All Saints' parish church was alongside St Mary's, but was blown down by a storm in 1801 and its parishioners accommodated by the addition of a N transept to St Mary's, using some of the old fabric. St Mary's is a flint church of nave, chancel and W tower. The N transept added in 1802 was enlarged to form a three-bay N aisle in 1885. There is a N doorway without a porch and a 12thc. S doorway under a 15thc. porch liberally adorned with flushwork. The chancel is the same width as the nave, with which it shares a roof, and has no chancel arch. It was 13thc. originally but was largely rebuilt in 1885. To the N is an organ room and vestry. The W tower is 14thc. in its lower stage, with a flowing W window and the arms of the Uffords, Earls of Suffolk, above it. It originally had a spire but this had collapsed by 1801 and was replaced with a pyramid roof. The present bell stage and parapet, embattled and decorated with flushwork, date from 1885.and brick diagonal buttresses have been added at the W. To the N of the church stands a single-storey parish room dating from the early 19thc. and once used as a school. The S nave doorway, heavily restored, is the only Romanesque feature.
- 22. St Peter, Creeting St Peter, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The Creetings are a pair of villages standing in rolling land of mixed cultivation 2to 3 miles E of Stowmarket. There were once four churches; St Mary’s, St Olave’s, St Peter’s and All Saints’. The first two were small but discrete alien Benedictine priories, but St Olave’s had gone by the 17thc (although its site has been excavated recently). All Saints’ parish church was alongside St Mary’s, but was blown down by a storm in 1801 (see Creeting St Mary). The A14 trunk road slices through Creeting St Peter, with the village to the N and the church isolated to the S of the road. Although the church is only 500 yards from the centre of the village as the crow flies, it is a mile away by road. St Peter’s has a nave, chancel and W tower, all of flint, with the S nave wall mortar rendered. The nave has a plain 12thc N doorway and a 13thc. S doorway under a 14thc. flint porch. The nave windows are 14thc.-15thc., and inside is a wooden W gallery housing the organ. The chancel arch is broad and 14thc., as are the chancel windows. On the N side is a vestry, rebuilt c.2000 reusing a 14thc. window. The W tower is 14thc. too, with flowing bell-openings, diagonal western buttresses and a battlemented parapet. There is no tower arch inside the church, only a small doorway and the arch may have been blocked when the gallery was erected in the 19thc. On buttresses of the tower, porch and nave there are flushwork crosses; five surviving but Simon Knott (www.suffolkchurches.co.uk) detects signs of repairs on seven other buttresses and suggests that there were once twelve. They might have been consecration crosses, corresponding to a reconsecration after the major rebuilding of the 14thc. The church was derelict and roofless in the 18thc., and its present appearance owes much to its 19thc. restoration.
- 23. All Saints, Darsham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Darsham is a village in E Suffolk, 5 miles N of Saxmundham and 3 miles inland from Dunwich. It stands in rising arable land in the valley of one of the small tributaries that drain into the Minsmere river and eventually reach the sea via a sluice S of Dunwich. All Saints is a flint church comprising a nave with a S porch, a chancel and a W tower. The S walls of the nave and chancel are rendered. The nave has 12thc. lateral doorways; the N blocked with brick and the S protected by a knapped flint porch of 1887. To the E of the N doorway traces of a blocked window remain – possibly round-headed. The external angles have large quoins of rough ashlar, pointing to an early 12thc. date. The masonry of the N wall indicates that the nave was heightened, probably in the late-15thc. when the windows were added. Inside, the remains of a rood stair survive at the SE of the nave. The windows were replaced in the 15thc. The chancel is long with a pointed lancet towards the E on the N side. The E wall was rebuilt in the 19thc. with a plain pointed triplet in the Early English style. Other chancel windows date from the 14thc. to the 16thc. The tower is tall and slender and dates from the 15thc. Bequests for its construction were made between 1460 and 1505. It is of flint and septaria with diagonal buttresses and a battlemented parapet, both with flushwork decoration. The W window and bell-openings have 15thc. tracery. It was repaired in 1989-91. The two nave doorways are described below.
- 24. St Mary Magdalene, Debenham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Debenham is a small town skirted by the river Deben (little more than a stream at this point), in central Suffolk some 8 miles E of Stowmarket. It is built on a hill, small but steep-sided, with the church at the summit and the High Street running past it from N to S. The church provides a perfect example of the development of English medieval architecture. Its sturdy W tower is 11thc.; its chancel is 13thc. Early English; the nave is 15thc. Perpendicular and the W Galilee is 14thc. Decorated. In more detail, the lower parts of the flint tower probably date from the first half of the 11thc., before the Conquest, and show long and short work at the angles (best seen at the NW) and coursed and herringbone masonry. On the S wall are two simple round-headed lancets, but they are not identical. The lower is thinner with long and short masonry jambs and belongs with the first phase described above. The upper is broader with a slight chamfer around the opening, pointing to a post-Conquest date. The tower arch inside belongs to this second campaign. The tower received its belfry stage, including the bell-openings, around 1380, the date of a bequest of 20 marks from Walter Hart. The ashlar embattled parapet is a later addition. It apparently had a small spire that was struck by lightning in the 17thc. and taken down in 1667. There is no obvious trace of the Romanesque nave and chancel that belonged to the tower. The next phase of the present building is the 13thc. chancel that replaced its Romanesque predecessor. The N windows are plain pointed lancets but those on the S, facing the town, are two-light plate tracery windows, indicating a date towards the middle of the 13thc. The E window is renewed, but is a simple triplet as might be expected. Inside, the piscina is also 13thc. On the S side stands the impressive tomb of Sir Charles Framlingham (d.1595) and his wife. The next campaign involved the building of the Galilee, a two-storey W porch of flint with a knapped flint façade and battlements on the lateral walls. It dates from the late 14thc. The Norman nave was completely remodelled in the first half of the 15thc., when aisles were added with tall, four-bay arcades. The chancel arch was replaced at the same time as the arcades were built. Mortlock points out that the 13thc. jambs of the arch were raised by inserting new sections, and new capitals were carved, like those of the nave arcades. The arch became unstable, and by 1875 it was propped up by a timber support, and the chancel was blocked off as unsafe (Watling). It was restored in 1883. The nave aisles are tall too, and lit by three-light windows with segmental two-centred heads. The walls of the central vessel were raised to provide clerestories with two triple-light windows per bay. The Perpendicular work was faced externally with knapped flint, and embattled parapets were provided for nave and aisle walls. The N and S doorways are positioned below half-height windows in the aisles, and have no porches. The original nave buttresses have flushwork panels, but two have been replaced in the centre of the S wall, along with the section of aisle wall between them. This work is done in red brick, and probably dates from 1567-68 when money was bequeathed to repair the broken and decayed windows. The S aisle windows lost their tracery and mullions during the 18thc, and were patched with brick and timber, and in the same period the SE corner of the church was consolidated with huge brick buttresses. These disfigurements were reversed in the restorations of 1882-87 by H. J.Green of Norwich, who also restored the chancel. The tracery of the new S aisle windows was copied from those in the N aisle. Only the tower arch is recorded here.
- 25. St Mary, Depden, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Mary’s stands at the Sern end of a strip of woodland that was once much larger. It is not served by any road, and must be reached by a walk of a good half-mile, skirting arable land and passing through the wood. The nearest building is Depden Hall (now a bed and breakfast), which is some 400 yards away and includes fabric reputed to date from the 14thc. The village itself has fragmented into settlements at Depden Green to the N and along the A143 to the E of church and hall. St Mary’s is a light and airy flint-faced church of nave, chancel and W tower. The aisleless nave has a 12thc. S doorway protected by a modern flint and brick porch that has been fitted with a skylight and a tiled floor, and converted for use as a kitchen and storeroom. The N doorway is later, and has a modern concrete and timber porch. The nave walls have Y-tracery windows ofc.1300, mostly restoration but with some original tracery. The S wall appears to have been refaced recently. The chancel has a late-13thc. piscina, and windows of a similar stylistic date (although they are largely 19thc. work). At the E end, diagonal buttresses with flushwork and capped by little stumpy pinnacles have been added. The tower and its arch can be dated to the mid-15thc. by a bequest of 1451. The tower has diagonal buttresses, flushwork on the plinth, a stair turret at the SE angle, and an embattled parapet. The chancel and nave were described as 'already restored' in 1837 (Church Plans Online). A fire in the 1980s gutted the nave, and the roof was replaced with the present arch-braced construction. The architects were Whitworth and Hall of Bury St Edmunds.
- 26. St James's Hospital Chapel, Dunwich, Suffolk, England
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Formerly hospital chapel Dunwich is on the E coast of Suffolk between Swold and Aldeburgh. It was a Roman site and an important Anglo-Saxon port town, and from the late 11thc. until the middle of the 14thc. it was a nationally important seaport. By 1225 it was a mile from N to S, with an area similar to London's at that date, and had seven parishes with 19 churches and chapels, Franciscan and Dominican houses and two hospitals, including this one. By 1242 Dunwich was the largest port in Suffolk, but this changed dramatically after the great storms of 1287 and especially 1328. The latter completely silted up the harbour mouth and flooded the quays, effectively ruining the town as a port, although some fishing survived. The church of St Leonard disappeared into the sea and only 12 houses in that parish were left standing. The parishes of St Martin and St Nicholas lost 225 out of 300 houses between them. Many of the inhabitants left in search of a livelihood elsewhere and this, in combination with another great storm in 1347, when another 400 houses were lost to the sea, further reduced the size of the town. In another storm twenty years later, the churches of St Martin and St Nicholas were lost. The sea continued to erode the coastline, reaching the market place in 1540. The inhabitants stripped the churches and other buildings of their lead roofs and valuables as the sea reached them, and by 1717 St John's, the church of the Knights Templar, the market cross, St Peter's, the Blackfriars monastery and the town gaol were all lost in this way. The last of the medieval churches to go was All Saints. The parish boundaries had been redrawn to bring what remained of Dunwich into its parish, but there were not enough parishioners left to support it, and its last rector left in 1755. It remained in occasional use until the new church of St James was built alongside the Hospital in 1832, after which it was abandoned. It went into the sea between 1904 and 1919, and its last buttress was moved into St James's churchyard before the sea could claim it.
- 27. St Peter, Elmsett, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Elmsett is a large agricultural village 7 miles W of the centre of Ipswich. The country here is rolling and arable, with much sugar beet grown. The village suffered casualties in 1941 when a bomb (possibly intended for Wattisham airfield, 3 miles to the NW) destroyed a row of cottages, and there has been some new building to replace them. The church is outside the village centre to the NE, and stands on ground that slopes steeply down to a tributary of the Belstead Brook to the N. The site has been partially levelled by building a steep embankment N of the churchyard and cutting into the slope on the S, for the foundations. Hence the floor inside the nave is much lower than the ground to the S, where the entrance is.
- 28. All Saints, Eyke, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Eyke is a village in SE Suffolk, 10 miles NE of Ipswich and 3 miles NE of Woodbridge. The river Deben flows past the NW edge of the village; the ground sloping down from the village into the valley. To the SE of the village is Rendlesham forest. Eyke is a good-sized village clustered around the A1152 road out of Woodbridge, with the church sited alongside the main road in the centre of the village.
- 29. All Saints, Fornham All Saints, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The river Lark cuts through the Fornhams (All Saints on the W side of the valley and St Martin and St Genevieve on the east) after passing through Bury St Edmunds on its way to join the Great Ouse near Ely. Fornham All Saints is only half a mile from the northern outskirts of Bury, but retains its village character. All Saints church has a nave with S aisle and S porch, a chancel, N chapel and W tower. The earliest work is the 12thc. S doorway, heavily restored. The nave, however, was rebuiltc.1300 (one Y-tracery S window), and the porch was added in the 15thc. The S aisle was then added, abutting the E wall of the porch, but extending alongside the chancel to form a S chapel. The chancel itself is 14thc., with a three-light reticulated E window and flowing tracery windows on the N side. Its piscine is curiously placed to the W of the sedilia. On the N a chapel was added in the 15thc. with a squint to the main altar. The tower is 13thc. in its lower parts, with simple lancets. The bell-storey is ofc.1300 and there is a battlemented parapet with gargoyles and pinnacles. The restoration was by Sir Arthur Blomfield, in the 1860s, and he replaced the aisle and chancel roofs, renewed most of the windows to their original designs, restored the porch and added the tower pinnacles. Romanesque sculpture is found on the restored S doorway.
- 30. St Edmund, Fritton, Norfolk, England
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Parish church St Edmunds is a complete 12thc. church of nave, round W tower and chancel with an apsidal E end. The 12thc. nave was originally much narrower, and was widened in the 14thc. by moving the S wall nine feet S. The result is that both the tower and the chancel are set at the N end of their respective nave walls. The effect is most disconcerting looking down the nave from W to E. The chancel has a barrel-vaulted straight bay and an apse with three windows, deeply splayed and decorated with a chevron order within, but small and plain without. The windows of the straight bay are insertions, perhaps of the 14thc. The arch to the chancel is pointed and of four orders that die into the walls without supports. It presumably belongs to the 14thc. remodelling. The apse arch is 12thc. and described below. The exterior of the chancel is of flint with some brickwork repairs at the top and flat pilaster buttresses. The nave is also of flint, although its tall E wall has been rebuilt in brick. It has a S doorway with a porch of knapped flints, and the N doorway now gives access from inside the church to a 19thc. vestry. Both nave and chancel have thatched roofs. There is no tower arch inside the church; simply a small pointed doorway. The lower section of the tower is of flint with some large blocks of ashlar, bricks and tiles included. The upper part is of knapped flints with a parapet of brick. There are 13thc. lancets in the lower storey, wider pointed windows of brick at the foot of the upper storey and Perpendicular bell-openings. There was a restoration in 1854-56 by J. Brown and B. Jackson.
- 31. St Mary, Great Bradley, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The villages of Great and Little Bradley are in the Stour valley N of Haverhill; their churches less than a mile apart. St Mary’s has a nave with N and S doorways and a S porch, a chancel and a W tower. The nave is Romanesque; both doorways are 12thc., as are the jambs of the chancel arch, but the arch itself is later and steeply pointed. The nave windows have all been replaced; one on the N is 16thc., the rest are 19thc. The S porch is an attractive brick construction with a crow-stepped gable and niches, dating from the 16thc.. The chancel, and the upper part of the chancel arch, are early 14thc. judging from the S chancel doorway and the form of the windows. The W tower is perhaps 14thc. too, and has angle buttresses and a spiral stair turret at its SE corner. It was heavily modified in the 16thc., however, and the W doorway, the flushwork on the plinth, the bell-openings and the battlements on the main parapet and the taller stair turret parapet must date from the later period. Externally the tower is mortar rendered, as is the entire church except for the S nave wall (of flint) and the E chancel wall (of flint with brick diagonal buttresses and decorative banding) and the S porch of red brick. Of the Romanesque work, the N doorway is plain in comparison with the S, which is modelled either on the Prior’s doorway at Ely, or on the copy at nearby Kirtling (Cambs).
- 32. St Mary, Gedding, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Gedding is midway between Bury and Stowmarket, well S of the A14, in farmland that is mostly arable with some woodland and pasture. The church stands at the eastern end of the village, and the hall (partly 16thc and now the home of Bill Wyman) is half a mile away to NE. St Mary’s is a flint church of nave and chancel with a low W tower whose upper part is of red brick with a tiled pyramid roof. The nave is 12thc; it has a tiny round-headed lancet just E of the lateral doorways to N and S. The S window has chevron decoration; the N is plain. The S nave doorway is a plain 13thc. piece without a porch; the N is ofc.1200 and very plain. Other nave windows are 14thc. The 13thc. chancel arch is narrow and has 14thc. ogee-headed openings to either side, decorated on their E faces only with seaweed foliage and ballflowers. The chancel windows are early 14thc. The tower arch is 15thc., tall and carried on corbels. The tower is also 15thc., of knapped flint with diagonal buttresses decorated with flushwork. It was dilapidated by the 1880s, and was rebuilt with red brick at the top, but the flushwork is original and includes a Marian monogram and the arms of the Chamberlins (according to Mortlock). The Romanesque features described here are the N nave doorway and the S nave window.
- 33. Holy Trinity, Gisleham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Gisleham stands on the edge of the arable land of the NE Suffolk coastal plain, less than a mile S of the edge of Lowestoft. The village was a small one, but the expansion of Lowestoft seems set to absorb it as it has already absorbed its neighbour, Carlton Colville.
- 34. St Mary, Gosbeck, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Gosbeck is a dispersed parish lying some 7 miles N of the centre of Ipswich. The landscape is typical of the East Anglian plain; more or less flat and given over to arable cultivation. The parish is crossed by two streams that converge in the S and eventually run into the river Gipping NW of Ipswich, and their valleys lend some variation to the landscape. To the W is Gosbeck wood, an ancient wood covering approximately 25 hectares. The church is 0.6 mile west of the village centre, with the wood to its W and Church Farm to the N. The hall is at the NE end of the village, but the presence of Newton Hall at the SW end and a moated site 0.3 mile NW of the church may reflect the existence of several manors here until the 1820s.
- 35. St Mary, Great Blakenham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Great Blakenham lies 2½ miles N of the edge of Ipswich; the village sprawling along the road from Needham Market. The main road is the A14 half a mile to the E, but traffic through Great Blakenham is quite heavy enough to rob it of any village character. This is a pity, because the site is potentially an attractive one, in rolling landscape alongside a crossing of the river Gipping. St Mary’s is on the main road in the centre of the village. It consists of a nave, chancel and W tower. The nave is 12thc. with plain round-headed lateral doorways and one 12thc. S lancet. The N doorway is blocked and the S has a timber porch. When the visit was made the porch floor was being lowered to allow wheelchair access. The chancel has a 13thc. triple lancet in the E wall, blocked in the 17thc. and uncovered and restored in the 1870s. There are also 13thc. lancets in the lateral walls at the E end. An organ room has been added on the N side and a vestry on the S. The chancel roof is lower than that of the nave, but there is no chancel arch. The two-storey W tower has no buttresses, a tall plinth course and battlements. The bell-openings and W window are 14thc. reticulated. The church is of flint, generally rendered with mortar, but on the nave walls only traces of render remain. The W tower is rendered only on its top storey.
- 36. St Mary and St Lawrence, Great Bricett, Suffolk, England
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Formerly Augustinian priory, now parish church Great Bricett is a village in central Suffolk, 5 miles S of Stowmarket and 9 miles NW of the centre of Ipswich. It stands in arable farmland on a minor road that runs from the village to the buildings of Wattisham airfield, immediately N of it. The priory church is in the centre of the village, to the W of the main street, with a moated site 300 yards further to the W. The church is a very long, low aisleless building under a single roof of modern tiles. It has no chancel arch, but the position of the division is marked by an external buttress and a change in masonry, as well as a slight northward change in orientation at the E end and N rood stair. Only the S side of the church is accessible; to the N lay the cloister surrounded by the usual priory offices but after the Dissolution a manor house was built directly onto the NW angle and this covers most of the complex. The nave had a 12thc. W tower, the blocked tower arch surviving inside with a blocked window above it, visible inside and out. The W façade is now plain and gabled, and is partly hidden by the 16thc. manor house built against it. On the W gable is a plain, rendered single bell-cote of 1907. The outline of a blocked, plain S doorway is visible to the E of the S porch. That must be the original doorway ofc.1110; the present S doorway is ofc.1160-70, under a modern flint and timber porch. The S nave windows are largely ofc.1300 with Y-tracery, although there are remade round-headed windows at either end, and the remains of a blocked window immediately E of the porch. The priory church had short transepts with E chapels at the W end of the chancel, and an apsidal E end (discovered by excavation, see Fairweather (1927)). The transepts were apparently removed in a remodelling ofc.1300, when chapels were added further E and a square-ended presbytery. Finally the chapels were removed, although their blocked arches remain, now housing small windows. The presbytery was removed and the present E wall with its five-light flowing tracery window was built in 1868. Pevsner suggests that this window is a copy of what was there before. Three restorations are known after that of 1868. In 1905-07 there were general repairs to the walls and roof by E. H. Sedding of Plymouth, in 1932-34 more general repairs were carried out under H. M. Cautley, and in 1950 the contractors Cubitt and Gotts cariied out unspecified repairs. In one or other of these campaigns the side walls of the chancel and the E end of the nave were repaired or raised with courses of red brick. The S doorway is an important Romanesque feature, not least because of its inscription naming the original dedication of the priory church, and the church also has an elaborately arcaded late-12thc. font. The author is grateful to John Higgitt for his advice about the inscription.
- 37. All Saints, Great Thurlow, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The villages of Great and Little Thurlow are in the Stour valley N of Haverhill; their churches only half a mile apart. All Saints, Great Thurlow is alongside the Hall. It has an aisled and clerestoried nave, a short chancel with a N vestry and a W tower. The 15thc. nave arcades are of four bays, carried on lozenge-shaped piers without capitals into which the arch mouldings die without any transition. The square-headed clerestory windows are Perpendicular too. The nave has north and south doorways, the north under a porch. The chancel is very short and 12thc in its fabric, with external shafts at its eastern angles, but it was heavily restored in the 19thc and given a new chancel arch, and it retains no original windows. The roofs of both nave and chancel have been raised, apparently for purely decorative purposes, since the tower shows the scar of a taller and steeper nave on its east face. Liturgically the presbytery has been given an extra bay by inserting a step opposite the first nave piers and by screening off the east aisle bays for use as an organ chamber (N) and a chapel (S). The west tower may be late 14thc, although its diagonal buttresses appear to be added. Its bell openings are no help; the north is 15thc, the south and east apparently 14thc and the west 19thc.. and an embattled parapet. On top of the tower is a neo-classical bell-cote of lead. The exterior nave and aisle walls are embattled too, and the church is faced with flint. The angle shafts of the chancel provide the only signs of Romanesque fabric, but there is a reset stone carved with a cable moulding reset in the west wall of the north aisle, and the font is 12thc too.
- 38. St Peter, Gunton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Gunton is now a northern suburb of Lowestoft; the church standing between modern housing and the Pleasurewood Hills family leisure park, which occupies the site of Gunton Hall to the N of the church. The medieval village had all but disappeared by 1602, when the population was only three. By 1821 it had grown to 87, and in 1868 it was described as a small village two miles NW of Lowestoft whose principal residences were the New and Old Halls (National Gazetteer). St Peter’s consists of a nave and chancel in one without a chancel arch, and with a S porch to the nave and a N vestry to the chancel, and a round W tower. The church fell into disrepair in the 17thc., and was restored under the patronage of Charles Boyce, the work being completed in 1700. It again fell into ruin, and was restored again by the Fowlers of Gunton Hall in 1899-1901. This restoration was very complete: the roofs were retiled, the E wall was demolished to ground level and rebuilt, most of the windows were replaced and all the nave and chancel walls were rebuilt from the tops of the windows. The 19thc. flintwork is easily distinguishable from the older work. Nave and chancel are 12thc., with some original quoins surviving and elaborate N and S nave doorways. One N nave window and the blocked remains of a S chancel window are also of that date. Other windows have Y-tracery or are plain pointed lancets, but most belong to the 1899-1901 restoration. The E window is a 19thc. triplet, but above it in the gable is what seems to be a genuine 13thc. lancet, that must have been re-set when the wall was rebuilt. The S porch appears 15thc., of flint and brick, although it has sometimes been dated to the 17thc. restoration and the 19thc. N chancel vestry is of flint. The 12thc. tower (see the tower arch) has two 13thc. lancets in its W face, but the bell-openings are 15thc. (again, sometimes dated to Boyce’s restoration). The plain parapet is of brick. To the N of the church, separated by approximately three metres from the nave wall, is a parish room of 1990, known as the annexe. This is of flint, in a stripped Romanesque style. In the porch is an octagonal shaft on an octagonal base, supporting the worn and damaged octagonal bowl of a 13thc. font or stoup. Romanesque sculpture is found on the N and S nave doorways and the plain tower arch is also recorded here.
- 39. All Saints, Hacheston, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Hacheston is a village lying on the road from Framlingham to Wickham Market in east Suffolk. This road, now the B1116, follows the line of a stream that rises in Framlingham and runs into the river Alde at Blaxhall. The land is flattish and arable, and the church is built on a rise at the southern end of the village.
- 40. St Mary, Harkstead, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Harkstead stands on the N bank of the Stour estuary, 5 miles W of its mouth at Harwich harbour and 6½ miles S of Ipswich. The village stands above Holbrook Bay in mostly arable farmland with some pasture and woodland. The church is 0.4 miles to the E of the village centre with Harkstead Hall Farm to its E. St Mary’s comprises a nave with a S aisle and S porch, chancel with N vestry and W tower. The N wall of the nave is 12thc. with two lancets, refaced on the exterior and a blocked 12thc. doorway. The masonry here is of septaria. Inside, the arch of the easternmost of the 12thc. windows has a 13thc. narrative wall painting. A brown septaria S aisle was added to the 12thc. nave around 1300. The three bay arcade and cusped Y-tracery aisle windows indicate this period, although the windows themselves were renewed in 1875. The S doorway and its porch are of the same campaign. In the 15thc. the aisle was extended E to form a short chapel alongside the chancel. Here the windows are Perpendicular. The chancel itself was rebuilt in 1867, with a knapped flint facing. It has no chancel arch, although there are coloured marble shafts supporting the westernmost roof truss, and its furnishings are all of the 19thc., although it retains a beautiful 14thc. Easter Sepulchre on the N side. The tower is 15thc. with characteristic W window and bell-openings, and a plinth with tracery and quatrefoil reliefs. It is constructed of a mixture of flints, septaria, ashlar, pebbles and brick or tile, and its brick battlemented parapet may be 18thc. Some idea of the extent to which the church has been restored may be gained from the etching of 1846 by Henry Davy. This shows a view from the SE, and all the visible windows of the S aisle, chapel and chancel lacked tracery, as did the tower bell-openings which had been blocked with brick. The first restoration, in 1867 by W. Slater and R. H. Carpenter of London, involved the rebuilding of the chancel in knapped flint with Ancaster stone dressings in a style of c.1270-1310. The remainder of the church was restored the same firm’s designs in 1875. The 12thc. N windows and doorway and the 13thc. wall paintings were revealed at that time, and tracery was added to the aisle windows. The nave and aisle were re-roofed at this time, the porch restored and the vestry added. The only feature recorded here is the N doorway.
- 41. St Augustine, Harleston, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Harleston is in rolling arable land 2 miles W of Stowmarket. The church and the moated hall site are close together to the NE of the village centre. St Augustine’s is a single-cell church of flint and septaria with a wooden bell-turret on the W gable and a thatched roof. The N and S nave doorways are 12thc. in origin. The S, plain and heavily restored, is practically obscured by a pair of evergreens planted to either side. The N is blocked, and the blocking includes pieces of ashlar from the jambs and a long, curved stone, presumably from the arch. None of these has any carved decoration. The other windows are 13thc. and plain. Inside there is no chancel arch but a 14thc. wooden screen. There was a restorationc.1860, to which belong the W front including the bell-turret, the E window and the chancel furnishings.
- 42. St Andrew, Hasketon, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Hasketon is towards the SE of the county, just west of the A12 at Woodbridge; the landscape here is the typical arable farmland of the East Anglian plain. The village is on rising ground on the N side of the valley of a stream; one of a network that drains into the Deben estuary at Martlesham Creek, S of Woodbridge. The church stands in the centre of the village, S of the village green.
- 43. St Mary, Hawkedon, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Mary’s has an aisleless nave, chancel and W tower. The nave has a S doorway under an attractive flint and brick porch, and a blocked N doorway. Nave and chancel are 14thc., and the nave has a wooden organ gallery at the W end by Detmar Blow (1912). The tower is 14thc. too, with diagonal buttresses at the W. Construction is of flint, once rendered but much of the rendering has gone now. The font is the only Romanesque feature.
- 44. All Saints, Hawstead, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Hawstead is a village in the hundred of Thingoe, some 3 miles S of the centre of Bury St Edmunds. The church stands on a by-road at the NW end of the village, alongside Church Farm, and Hawstead Hall is half a mile from the church, to the NE. All Saints' is a big church consisting of a broad aisleless nave with a S porch, a lower chancel with a N vestry and a W tower. Nave and tower are of knapped flints with stone dressings; the E gable of the nave rebuilt in brick. The chancel is of flint and septaria and the vestry of flint with brick repairs. The nave is substantially of the 15th-16thc., and has Perpendicular windows and buttresses decorated with flushwork panels, but the N and S doorways are 12thc. work, clearly re-set. Inside is a fine 16thc. hammerbeam angel roof, unfortunately mutilated during the civil war of the 17thc. and over-restored in 1858. The S porch is 15thc. The chancel has a blocked round-headed window towards the W end of the S wall, indicating 12thc. fabric. It was re-modelled and probably lengthened in the early 13thc. (plain N and S lancets), and other windows date from all periods fromc.1300 to the 15thc. The chancel arch was heavily restored in the 19thc. The tower is of one campaign, completedc.1500. It has a polygonal S stair, diagonal W buttresses with flushwork panels, and more intricate flushwork on the battlemented parapet. Above the W doorway is a frieze bearing the arms of Sir Robert Drury and his family's alliances by marriage. Hawstead church is mainly celebrated for its monuments: a late-13thc. knight effigy reputed to be Sir Eustace fitzEustace; tombs of the Drury family dating from the 16thc. and early 17thc., and the overblown Italianate tomb of Sir Thomas Cullum (d.1664).
- 45. All Saints, Hemley, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Hemley is on the estuary of the River Deben in SE Suffolk, 4 miles from its mouth. The village is on the W side of the estuary, where the flat, marshy land alongside the river begins to rise to a sandy, arable landscape. Hemley was formerly a port and a centre of salt manufacture but nothing of this remains; only the church, Hemley Hall half a mile to the N, and a few houses clustered around the end of a lane from Newbourne that stops at the edge of the marshes. The church had fallen into disrepair by the 19thc. and was largely rebuilt in 1889. It consists of a W tower and a nave and chancel of mixed knapped flints, septaria and assorted stone rubble, decoratively laid with the effect of crazy paving. Nave and chancel are similar height and width (though separately roofed), and separated by a wooden chancel arch on corbels. The nave has a 14thc. S doorway under a timber-framed porch dated 1889. The blocked N doorway is ofc.1300. All the windows are 19thc., in a variety of styles of the later 13thc. and early 14thc. The tower is of red brick with blue brick diapering and may date fromc.1500. The only Romanesque feature is a Purbeck marble font.
- 46. St Peter, Henley, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Henley is a substantial but compact village 4 miles N of the centre of Ipswich in hilly farmland. The land is now used mainly for cereals and sugar beet, but in 1086 it included pasture and woodland too. The church stands in the centre of the village, its small graveyard surrounded by houses. St Peter's consists of a nave with a large N vestry, chancel and W tower. The flint nave is 12thc. in origin, with a remodelled S doorway decorated with chevron under a 19thc. porch. The 13thc. N doorway now provides access to a knapped flint vestry; originally the village school of 1838, but rebuilt here in 1904 to serve as vestry and Sunday school. The nave windows are generally 15thc. and renewed, except for a three-light terracotta window in the S wall dating from the 1520s and probably taken from Old Shrubland Hall (demolished in the 19thc.). The nave originally ended just W of the lateral doorways, but was extended westwards when the tower was added c.1500. Nave and chancel are of equal width and there is no chancel arch. The flint chancel retains its 13thc. piscina and aumbry, and has 13thc. lancets on the N and 14thc. windows on the S, but it was rebuilt in 1894. The tower arch is tall and the flint tower itself has diagonal buttresses to the W with flushwork decoration, a Perpendicular W window and bell-openings, and a battlemented parapet of brick. An inscription over the W door asks for prayers for the soul of Thomas Seckford and his wife, Margaret. Seckford was a clothier who died in 1505 and was presumably responsible for funding the new tower. Major restorations took place here in 1846, 1894-95 and 1904, and another was in progress, involving the nave roof, in November 2005. The S doorway is described below, along with a capital re-set alongside it.
- 47. St Mary, Henstead, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Mary's is a flint church with a single, thatched nave and chancel, no chancel arch and a tall 14thc. W tower with diagonal buttresses and flushwork on the parapet. The two nave doorways are 12thc. work; the S protected by a 14thc. porch.
- 48. St Peter, Hepworth, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Hepworth is midway between Bury St Edmunds and Diss, approximately 9 miles from each. The land here is low and rolling and given over to arable cultivation. There are common lands to the NW and SE of the village, which consists largely of houses and farm buildings around a junction of minor roads, with the church, rectory and Grange Farm at the eastern edge. St Peter's was burnt down in 1898 when its thatch caught fire, and only the tower, the walls and the porch survived the blaze. It was rebuilt by J. S. Corder of Ipswich. It is a church of the 13thc. and later, consisting of a nave, chancel and W tower, all of flint. The nave is tall with high 15thc. windows to N and S, and its roof has been raised. The N and S doorways are 14thc.; the S under a flint porch, which is, almost entirely 19thc. work. The nave wall behind and to the W of the S porch has a large brick repair in the shape of an arch, suggesting that the doorway and porch were once further W. Inside is the blocked N entrance to a rood loft. The chancel, almost as high as the nave, is early-14thc., with reticulated E, N and S windows and a contemporary S doorway and piscina. The tower has diagonal buttresses with flushwork at the top, a late 13thc. W doorway and tower arch and a 19thc. W window. The upper part has been rebuilt and the structure strengthened with iron clamps; this work dated to 1677 by ironwork on the W face. More clamps were added at a lower level in 1828. The bell-openings are of brick and date from the 17thc. restoration. The parapet is plain and the pyramid roof is fitted with a W dormer. Inside the church are two loose stones, a capital and a voussoir, from a 12thc. doorway.
- 49. St Margaret, Herringfleet, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Margaret's has an aisleless nave, chancel and round W tower. The nave and chancel are rendered; the nave thatched and the chancel roofed in tiles. There is a 12thc. window in the N chancel wall. The nave has a 12thc. S doorway under a later porch and a 13thc. N doorway, now blocked. The flint tower is of two storeys, the upper rendered. There are small round-headed lancets in the lower storey; two on the N side, two on the S and one on the W. The upper storey has 12thc. double bell openings in the cardinal directions, alternating with plain round-headed windows of brick with chamfered jambs. 12thc. features described here are the S nave doorway and the bell openings of the tower.
- 50. St Mary, Hinderclay, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Hinderclay is a village in N central Suffolk, 6 miles W of Diss. It stands in rolling arable land and consists of a cluster of houses around a crossroads with the church off the southern arm and the hall just 180 m to the S of it. Nearby, on the edge of Hinderclay wood, were found the remains of an early Iron Age settlement, and there were Roman pottery kilns in the wood too.
- 51. St Peter, Holton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Holton is on the northern slope of the Blyth valley; the village has been engulfed by the westward spread of Halesworth, and although its churchyard setting is spacious, the surroundings are industrial. Holton is home to one of Bernard Matthews' three UK turkey processing factories.
- 52. All Saints, Honington, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Honington is in the N of the county, 6 miles S of Thetford and just 4 miles from the Little Ouse that forms the boundary with Norfolk. The benefice takes its name from the Black Bourn, a stream that winds its way N through most of the parishes in the benefice before it joins the Little Ouse N of Euston. It is an agricultural area of small villages and farms. RAF Honington to the W of the village was opened as a bomber base in 1937, but no aircraft have flown from here since 1993 and it is now the RAF Regiment depot. All Saints church stands in the centre of the village, surrounded by a very small churchyard. It is of flint and consists of a nave with a W tower and a chancel with a N vestry. The nave is aisleless and has an elaborate 12thc. S doorway under a fine 15thc. porch with battlements and flushwork decoration. The N doorway is 13thc., tiny and plain. The nave windows were all replaced in the 14thc. (S) or 15thc. (N), but the chancel arch is 12thc. and very small. The chancel is 14thc. with an ogee-headed window and a piscina in the S wall. The tower and its arch are 14thc. with a battlemented parapet. A polygonal SW stair turret of brick has been added. The interior had its 15thc. benches removedc.1914 and replaced with pitch-pine pews, but some of the bench ends have been incorporated into the chancel choirstalls. It was all whitewashed in the 1940s, and a set of wallpaintings (see Cautley) covered up.
- 53. St Mary, Horham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Horham is in the arable land of the East Anglian plain in central N Suffolk, 7 miles SE of Diss. The land falls away to the E of the village to the valley of a tributary of the Waveney, running form S to N, and on a plateau to the NW of the village is the site of a World War II US airfield. The church is in the centre of the village, alongside the B1117 Eye to Stradbroke road.
- 54. St Michael, Hunston, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Hunston is nearly 8 miles E of the centre of Bury St Edmunds in flattish farmland, mostly arable. The village lies on the minor road linking it with Stowlangtoft, Badwell Ash and Walsham-le-Willows, and the church stands in farmland 0.3 miles S of the village centre. It is in the grounds of the former hall, but this is now gone and there are farm buildings S of the church. St Michael's has a W tower, nave with S transept and chancel. The tower is of knapped flint and dates from the 14thc. The nave, chancel and transept are of flint in mortar. The nave is 13thc, with N and S doorways of that period, the S under a timber porch. There is a blocked 13thc. S window and the N windows are 14th and 15thc. work. The transept has a W doorway, E windows and a double piscina, all of the 13thc. The chancel and its arch are 13thc. too, but its roof has been heightened with brick and it was restored in 1887. A carved 12thc. window head is reused in the masonry of the chancel N wall, and the author thanks Colin Myram for alerting him to its presence. The plain font is also said to be 12thc.
- 55. St Mary, Ickworth, Suffolk, England
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Parish church (redundant) The church is set in trees to the SW of Ickworth House (National Trust), but is now extremely dilapidated with its windows boarded up. It is padlocked and a notice declares it to be unsafe. It is a flint building consisting of nave with south aisle and north porch, chancel and rendered west tower. The church was built by Augustus John, Earl of Bristol, in 1778, and the same earl added the south aisle and the tower in 1833. A loose 12thc. window head is reported by Pevsner (in the porch) and Mortlock (by the west door). The author was unable to gain admission.
- 56. St Andrew, Ilketshall, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Andrews is a flint church with nave, chancel and W tower. The tower is round in its lower part, which has a pointed lancet of c.1200 to the S and an inserted W window of c.1320. The upper part of the tower is octagonal with Perpendicular bell-openings on the cardinal faces and flushwork tracery on the others, and a battlemented parapet decorated with flushwork tracery. The nave has a 12thc. N window and 12thc. doorways to N and S, the N plain and blocked; the S more elaborate and protected by an early Tudor brick porch. It has been heightened and given Perpendicular windows. The chancel has one 13thc. lancet but otherwise appears 14thc. or later. Nave and chancel are separately roofed but there is no chancel arch. Wall paintings in the nave are currently under restoration. The only Romanesque features described here are the two nave doorways.
- 57. St Mary Elms, Ipswich, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Mary's is on Elm Street in the business centre of Ipswich; its parish including the three law courts, the police station and the civic centre as well as offices and shops. Few people live in the parish now, and the church's mission is directed to the business people who work nearby. To that end it stays open during the day and celebrates a daily Eucharist. There was an earlier church near this site, dedicated to St Saviour, but St Mary at Elms is known to have existed by 1204 and may be older. It was rebuilt in the early 14thc. The 14thc church had a nave and chancel, together occupying the length of the present nave, with north and south transepts, and presumably a tower. The north aisle and the west tower, both of brick, were added in the 15thc. At some stage the south transept was removed, and in 1883 a new chancel was added to the east, and the old chancel incorporated into the nave. This work was done by E. F. Bisshopp, and included the lengthening of the north aisle and the provision of an organ chamber on the south of the new chancel. Brick vestries were added on the north side of the new chancel shortly afterwards. An engraving by Henry Davy shows the church in 1842, before all of this work. What we have today is a 14thc flint nave and north transept with 19thc windows in a 15thc. style. Davy's view shows 14thc windows in the nave. The nave has a 14thc. flint porch with niches for statues, protecting a 12thc. south doorway, said by Toll (following Tricker) to have come from the old church of St Saviour. Battlements of brick have been added to the nave. The north aisle now has an arcade of five bays; the two easternmost of 1883 and the rest 15thc. The chancel arch, chancel and its vestry and organ chamber are all 19thc. The brick west tower is tall at 54 feet (16.5 m) high but wide too, so that it does not seem lofty. It has octagonal clasping buttresses and a battlemented parapet. Several 19thc restorations are known. In 1848 the south porch was repaired and the 12thc doorway restored. There was a restoration by R. M. Phipson in 1860, and the major rebuilding of the chancel by E. F. Bisshopp in 1883. Romanesque sculpture is found on the south doorway.
- 58. Ipswich Museum, High Street, Ipswich, Suffolk, England
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Museum The museum contains only one object of interest to this project, but it is an important one. The fragment of a Tournai marble font bowl was discovered eight feet underground in the filling of the Tower Ramparts ditch on the north side of the town when foundations were being dug for Pretty and Co.'s Box factory in 1894. The author is grateful to David Jones, Keeper of Human History at the museum, for arranging access to the store.
- 59. St Nicholas, Ipswich, Suffolk, England
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Parish church (redundant) The church stands on Franciscan Way, part of the Ipswich inner ring road, in an area of office buildings between the town centre and the docks. It became redundantc.1980 and came into the possession of Ipswich Borough Council, who rented it to the Ipswich Historic Churches Trust. In 2001 the Diocese bought it from the Council for £1, in order to convert it into a flexible meeting place in the centre of Ipswich for the church, community, business and charities. It includes a conference, meeting and performance space, a bookshop and a restaurant. The church consists of a nave with aisles of flint and rubble construction, of four bays without a clerestorey but with 15thc. dormers at the east end to light the rood area. The arcade, S doorway and aisle windows suggest a date ofc.1300. The aisles were extended for one bay alongside the chancel in the 15thc., and on the N side a knapped flint gabled chapel was added E of this, which is now the Revelations bookshop. On the S side of the chancel, a passage leads to the glass-walled restaurant of 2004-05. The S nave doorway is protected by a brick porch. The W tower is 15thc, of knapped flint with diagonal buttresses and an embattled parapet with elaborate flushwork and crocketed pinnacles. It was rebuilt in 1886. St Nicholas's has no Romanesque fabric but houses the most celebrated Romanesque sculpture in the county: a tympanum carved with a boar, a relief of St Michael and the Dragon and three reliefs of apostles.
- 60. St Peter, Ipswich, Suffolk, England
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Parish church (redundant) The area around St Peter's is historically one of the most interesting in the town. On College Street stood the Augustinian Priory of St Peter and St Paul until 1527, when Cardinal Wolsey founded his Cardinal College of St Mary on the site. It was not completed, but a gateway survives. St Peter's Street itself runs S from the town centre and boasts a good collection of timber-framed shops and houses. St Peter's is at the southern end of the street, at an intersection of the inner ring road. Beyond it to the S are derelict waterfront warehouses standing on the dockside. Its present position is by no means attractive, therefore, but work is under way on the regeneration of the waterfront, and St Peter's is likely to benefit from them. It was made redundant in 1979 along with three other town centre churches, and the Ipswich Historic Churches Trust was founded at the same time to ensure their maintenance and preservation. In 1981 these four churches, St Lawrence, St Peter, St Clement and St Stephen, were passed to the Borough Council by the Church Commissioners for a nominal sum and then offered to the Ipswich Historic Churches Trust on long leases. The intention was that the Trust would undertake repairs and find appropriate new uses.
- 61. All Saints, Ixworth Thorpe, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Ixworth is 6 miles NE of Bury St Edmunds, and Ixworth Thorpe (the suffix indicating a marginal settlement) lies 2 miles to the NW of Ixworth and consists of the church and scattered farms and houses along the road to Thetford. The land here is flattish with low rolling hills and is given over to arable cultivation. All Saints church is alongside the road on the southern edge of the settlement. It has a nave and chancel and a low W tower of red brick with a timber bell-turret. The nave is only slightly higher than the chancel, and they share a thatched roof. The nave has a two-storey 15thc. brick S porch, and nave and chancel are mortar rendered. Both nave doorways are 12thc., the N now blocked, and part of the 12thc. chancel arch remains on the north. There is a N rood-stair entrance alongside it, but this is later. All the nave windows were replaced in the 15thc. The chancel is 13thc., with small pointed lancets surviving on the N side and a plain S doorway of the same period. The piscina dates fromc.1300, the S chancel window is 15thc. and the E window has wooden glazing bars and tracery — probably 18thc. Repairs were carried out by D. E. Nye and partners of Surrey in 1961-63, and repairs to the tower proposed in 1970-72 were not proceeded with. The N and S nave doorways are recorded here.
- 62. St Mary and St Peter, Kelsale, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Kelsale is a good-sized village in east Suffolk, a mile N of Saxmundham. Saxmundham, Carlton and Kelsale now form a continuous settlement, and all three are bypassed by a loop of the A12. As so often happens, the main road has effectively cut off part of the old settlement, so that the centre of Kelsale is to the E of the A12 while Kelsale Hall is a mile to the NW, on the other side of it. Kelsale is sited on the side of a hill with the church, at its eastern edge, above the rest of the village. The land falls to the S and W towards the valley of a stream that eventually finds its way into the river Alde. Kelsale church has undergone considerable changes since the 12thc. It originally consisted of an unaisled nave and chancel, and possibly a W tower, but in the 14thc. a broad N aisle was added, higher and wider than the existing church and this became the nave, turning the old nave into a S aisle. The new nave was as long as the old nave and chancel together, and the church was lengthened by the addition of a new chancel (rebuilt in the 1870s), perhaps at the same. The old nave was extended eastwards in the 15thc., alongside the new chancel, to form a two-bay S chapel, and a S porch was added to the aisle. The present church thus consists of a nave with a four-bay S aisle and S porch, and a W tower at the end of the aisle, and a chancel with a 19thc. N vestry and a two-bay S chapel. The 12thc. N doorway was set in the new nave, and an elaborate priest’s doorway was added on the S side of the new chancel chapel, constructed of material that perhaps came from the 12thc. S doorway. Construction is of flint except for the chancel and its chapel, which are of knapped flint. The present 14thc. tower has diagonal buttresses, bell openings with complex flowing tracery and an embattled parapet with flushwork decoration. The 15thc. work also included the insertion of new windows on the N side of the 14thc. nave, and the addition of a spectacular W façade with angle buttresses decorated with flushwork and a five-light W window. There was a restoration in the 1870s, when the S aisle (i.e. the original nave) and the chancel were completely rebuilt. Romanesque features described here are the doorways on the N side of the nave and the S of the chancel chapel. The entrance to the churchyard is through a curious Arts and Crafts lych-gate designed by E.S. Prior.
- 63. All Saints, Kenton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Kenton is a village in mid-Suffolk, 13 miles N of Ipswich. The nearest town is Debenham, 2 miles to the SW. The land here is the usual arable farmland of the East Anglian plain. A tributary of the Deben runs to the E of the village, and the church is in the village centre with the moated site of Kenton Hall, now a 16thc. building, half a mile outside the village to the S.
- 64. St Mary, Kettlebaston, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Kettlebaston is a tiny, remote village in west Suffolk, 3 miles E of Lavenham and 11 miles SE of Bury St Edmunds. It stands on a hill in rolling arable land and consists of a cluster of houses around the church. The bright interior of St Mary's, with its rood screen painted with figures of saints by Enid Chadwick in 1954, flanked by altars to the Virgin and the Sacred Heart, betrays its Anglo-Catholic background, and until the retirement of Father H. C. Butler in 1964 the Roman Mass was said here every day. The church consists of a nave, chancel and W tower. The late-12thc S doorway, under an 18thc. brick porch, and one blocked N window testify to the Romanesque origins of the nave. The remaining windows are 15thc., and the N doorway is plain and probablyc.1300. Inside, there is a rood stair to the NE of the nave, and the splay of the blocked N window has 13thc. foliage wallpainting. The nave is of flint, newly mortar-rendered at the W end of the S wall, and with traces of old render on the N. Brick buttresses have been added to N and S. The chancel is of flint and very long, with old mortar render on the N wall and a brick vestry added there too. The chancel is apparentlyc.1300 in origin; the sedilia and piscina date from this time, and there is a 14thc. Easter Sepulchre on the north side. One of the S windows is 14thc. too - an unusual two-light composition with ogee heads, but the remainder are either 15thc. (one N window partly blocked by the vestry) or 19thc. replacements. The three-light reticulated E window is a replacement. The W tower is of flint and has diagonal buttresses, a polygonal stair on the S and a battlemented parapet. Its bell-openings are reticulated, and the tower arch also indicates a 14thc date. It once had a small spire. The church is recorded to have been built anew in 1363 (Tricker), and this work apparently included the rebuilding of the chancel and the construction of the tower. There were repairs to the chancel (1864) and the nave (1879). There was a restoration including repairs to the roofs and floors by H. J. Wright of Ipswich in 1901-02, and in 1902-03 the chancel was reordered to the designs of the Anglo-Catholic priest / architect, Ernest Geldart. restorations in 1922 and 1924-25 by Hunt and Coates of Bury St Edmunds, aimed at repairing the nave walls and the roof, and underpinning the chancel east wall, and further repairs in 1943-44, 1951-52 (by B. A. Hatcher of Ipswich) and 1963-64 (by Caroe and Partners). Romanesque sculpture is found on the south nave doorway, and there is a carved 12thc. box font that, unusually, retains its staples and still has a lockable lid (dating from 1929).
- 65. St Lawrence, Knodishall, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Knodishall is a small village in E Suffolk, 3 miles E of Saxmundham and 3 miles from the coast. It comprises a few houses clustered near the church and the hall site on gently falling land on the N side of the Hundred River valley. It is now an outlier of Knodishall Common; a larger settlement a mile to the SE. The flint and cobble church comprises nave, chancel and W tower; the nave and chancel separately roofed by similar in height and width and with no chancel arch separating them. There are small modern vestries to N and S of the chancel, and the S side of the church has brick buttresses. The nave has no lateral doorways now; both having been blocked in their lower parts to serve as windows. Entry is through the W tower doorway. The blocked N doorway indicates a 12thc. date for the nave. The nave and chancel windows, insofar as they are medieval, are of various dates betweenc.1300 and the 16thc. The chancel contains the remains of a 14thc. piscina. The W tower can be dated toc.1460 by a bequest from John Jenney and his wife, whose brass is inside the church. It has diagonal buttresses and a plain parapet decorated with flushwork. In complete contrast to the attractively muddled exterior, especially on the S side with its mixed masonry, brick buttresses and jumble of windows of different dates and styles, the interior is uncluttered, brightly whitewashed and very well lit through the S windows. The only Romanesque work recorded here is the N doorway.
- 66. St Mary, Lakenheath, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Lakenheath is a large village in the NW of Suffolk, between Ely and Thetford and only 10 miles from either. To the W is the fenland that runs into Cambridgeshire, and the Cut-off Channel, built in 1964 as part of the fen drainage system, runs alongside the B1112 that forms Lakenheath High Street. To the E was once Lakenheath Warren, set up by the prior of Ely in 1251 as a source of rabbits for the table — a practical solution to the exploitation of land that was unsuitable for crops or pasture. Over the centuries the land was over-grazed by the rabbits, and soil erosion became a problem. In the 1660s sand dunes spread over 1000 acres at Lakenheath warren. The site of the warren is now Lakenheath airfield, built for the RAF in 1941. In 1948 the Americans moved B-29 bombers in, and they took over the administration of the airfield in 1951. Today Lakenheath is home to the 48th Fighter Wing of the USAF, England's largest USAF operated fighter base.
- 67. All Saints, Little Bradley, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The villages of Great and Little Bradley are in the Stour valley N of Haverhill; their churches less than a mile apart. All Saints has an aisleless nave, chancel and W tower. The nave is 12thc., with a plain Romanesque chancel arch and a 12thc. S doorway under a flint and timber porch. Its N doorway has been replaced by a 19thc. window. The eastern part of the chancel is early 12thc., with two plain lancets in the N wall (one blocked) and signs of two more in the E wall. The western section of the chancel has thicker walls and is presumably 11thc. The original eastern angles are visible on the present side walls, indicating that the original chancel was lower as well as shorter. Mortlock claims that there is long and short work here, but it is a later repair. At the W end of the nave, the tower arch is small enough to be called a doorway (and it was fitted with a door and a wooden tympanum to square off the opening in the 16thc.) This leads to a W tower, circular and presumably 11thc. in its lower stage, with flint course laid in herringbone patterns, and octagonal above, with a battlement with double stepped merlons. There are plain round-headed lancets in the lower walls to N, S and W, but they are all restored. Construction is of flint, with herringbone work on the lower part of the tower and the western part of the chancel. Romanesque work reported here is in the chancel arch, the tower arch and the S doorway.
- 68. St Andrew, Little Glemham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Little Glemham is in central E Suffolk, between Wickham Market and Saxmundham, in the rolling arable land W of the Alde valley. Great Glemham, 2 miles to the N, is rather larger but both villages border the parklands of their respective halls; Great Glemham lying to the W of Glemham House, and Little Glemham to the SW of Glemham Hall. St Andrew's lies on the southern edge of Glemham Hall Park, 0.4 mile NE of the village centre. The church consists of a flint nave with a S porch of knapped flint, a large transeptal N chapel of knapped flint, a brick chancel and a flint W tower. The nave retains its 12thc. N doorway, but its windows and porch are 15thc. The tower is 15thc. with a polygonal SE stair, diagonal buttresses decorated with flushwork and a battlemented parapet, also with flushwork decoration. The W window and doorway are 15thc. and there are niches containing carved figures above the W doorway and the S porch entrance. The chancel is 18thc. and the N chapel was built to house the N family mausoleum, and is dominated by a large seated figure of Sir Dudley North (d.1829). The church was restored in 1857-58 by J. P. St Aubyn, the work including reseating, work on the gallery and repairs to the roof and windows. The only Romanesque sculpture is on the N doorway.
- 69. St Nicholas, Little Saxham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Little Saxham is a small village in W Suffolk, just 3½ miles W of the centre of Bury St Edmunds. The church stands in the centre of the village. It is of flint and septaria and has a round W tower, a nave with a N aisle and a chancel with a N chapel, now used as a vestry. The tower is described by Pevsner as 'the most spectacular Norman round tower in Suffolk' on account of its arcaded bell-storey. It also has its original W window; small but decorated with chevron ornament and a tall, very narrow tower arch. The S nave doorway is 12thc. too, under a 14thc. porch, and another 12thc. doorway is now set inside, in the W wall of the nave, S of the tower arch. The N aisle, with a three-bay arcade of simply-moulded continuous arches with chamfered orders, dates fromc.1300, and to the same campaign belong the S clerestorey and the plain N nave and chancel doorways. The aisle windows have flowing and reticulated tracery and must have been added towards the middle of the 14thc. The chancel arch is tall and broad with Perpendicular capitals and bases. The nave S wall was remodelledc.1500 or slightly afterwards. It was heightened and given battlements and three-light windows in the plainest of Perpendicular styles. The N chapel was built as a chantry chapel by Sir Thomas Fitzlucas, Solicitor-General to Henry VII, in 1520. It has battlements and a window like those of the nave S wall. Fitzlucas died in 1531 after building his own tomb, decorated with shields in quatrefoils, but he was buried in London. He left a bequest for remodelling the chancel and adding battlements like those of the nave, but although the E window appears to date from this period the battlement was never added. Romanesque features described here are the S nave doorway, the re-set doorway and the windows, blind arcading, string course and tower arch. of the W tower.
- 70. St Peter, Little Thurlow, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The villages of Great and Little Thurlow are in the Stour valley N of Haverhill; their churches only half a mile apart. St Peter's has an aisled nave with four-bay arcades and clerestories with oculi. The chancel has a N chapel with a two-bay arcade to the main vessel, built in 1621 to house the spectacular wall-tomb of Sir Stephen Soame (d.1619). The W tower is of two storeys with angle buttresses and dates from the 14thc. in its lower parts. Its bell openings and embattled parapet with flint chequer-work are Perpendicular. The tower is flint faced, as is the entire church except for the mortar-rendered clerestorey, the battlemented Soame chapel (of brick with mortar rendering) and the N porch (of brick). None of the fabric postdates the later 13thc. The church boasts three 13thc. piscinae; one in the chancel and one in each nave aisle, indicating that the aisles were built as chapels. The nave arcades and chancel arch are of c.1300, the tower arch is Perpendicular, N clerestory is 17thc. and the S 19thc. The only Romanesque feature is the font, carved with stylised foliage.
- 71. St Mary Magdalene, Little Whelnetham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Little Whelnetham stands in the rolling countryside of the Lark valley, some 3 miles SE of the centre of Bury St Edmunds. The village amounts to a cluster of houses and farm buildings on the road from Sicklesmere to Bradfield St George. Curiously, Great Whelnetham its nearest neighbour, belongs to a different benefice.
- 72. St Andrew, Marlesford, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Marlesford stands on the rising land on the N side of a tributary of the river Alde in the rolling arable land of central East Suffolk 2 miles NE of Wickham Market. The village extends from the hall and church in the N to the A12 which now forms its southern boundary. St Andrew's has a nave with a short S aisle and a S porch W of the aisle, a chancel and a W tower, all of flint. The earliest work is in the two-bay S arcade, which has circular piers with 12thc. imposts and bases, but later four-centred arches with two chamfered orders. For the rest, the N nave windows are square headed reticulated and the aisle windows 15thc. Perpendicular. The aisle is wide and was probably broadened when the arches and windows were remodelled . The gabled porch is 15thc. with flushwork decoration on its façade and a gabled parapet with wavy tracery. The chancel has a very plain arch and 14thc. fenestration with some 19thc. replacements. The tower is 15thc. and has diagonal W buttresses and a battlemented parapet with chequered flushwork.
- 73. All Saints, Mettingham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church All Saints has a nave with a S aisle, chancel and round W tower, all of flint, partly rendered. The nave and arcade are 14thc., with Perpendicular windows but no S clerestorey. There is a S aisle doorway under a simple brick porch and an unprotected 12thc. N doorway. The nave is roofed with lead and the chancel with slate with 19thc. cresting. The tower has a Perpendicular W window and bell openings, and a battlemented parapet decorated with flushwork. The N doorway is the only Romanesque feature.
- 74. Holy Trinity, Middleton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Middleton is a substantial village in east Suffolk, midway between Aldeburgh and Southwold and 3 miles from the coast. The Minsmere River runs through the village on its way to the partially drained coastal marshland that now forms the Minsmere bird sanctuary. The village centre is on the rising arable land S of the river with the church at its northern edge. Holy Trinity church has a nave and chancel in one, under a single roof, with a S porch to the nave, and a W tower with a spire. Both nave and chancel are 12thc. The nave has a shaft at its SW angle and a chevron-decorated S doorway, and the chancel has the remains of 12thc. ornament around its interior western windows on both sides. The piscina also includes some 12thc. work. The 12thc. chancel must have been lengthened and a new piscina built incorporating material from the old one. The E window and two N windows are intersecting or Y-tracery work ofc.1300, and this was presumably when the chancel was extended. The nave also has one Y-tracery on the N. All other nave and chancel windows are 15thc. insertions, and there is no N doorway to the nave. The S porch is mortar rendered with flushwork panels, battlements and a stepped gable. It has a classical pediment over the entrance and may be 15thc., remodelled in the 18thc. The nave and chancel have been refaced in mixed knapped flints and rubble, laid to give a crazy-paving effect. The tall, slender tower is of flint with heavy quoins at the eastern angles that may be 12thc. At the W are added diagonal buttresses with flushwork chequers. It has been heightened, and its upper storey has a slight setback. The bell-openings are 15thc., as is the embattled parapet with its flushwork tracery panels. The spire is a slender lead spike, and was completely rebuilt in 1955. While the work was proceeding, the thatched roof of the church caught fire, and the blaze spread to the rest of the building. Villagers rescued most of the furnishings, and surprisingly little was irrevocably lost. Romanesque work is found on the S doorway, the nave SW angle shaft, the piscina and around two chancel windows.
- 75. St Peter, Milden, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Milden is situated in arable farmland on the rising ground on the S side of the Lavenham Brook, a tributary of the river Brett, some 5 miles NE of Sudbury towards the S of mid-Suffolk. In the field immediately to the S of the church, once glebe land, a stone marks the second highest point in the county (82 m, 269 ft) It is a dispersed settlement, sparsely populated, extending approximately 1¼ miles from Milden Hall in the W, with the motte of a 12thc. castle nearby, to the church in the E.
- 76. St Peter, Moulton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Peter's was originally a 12thc. building with angle shafts at the four corners of the nave, partly surviving. Two-bay aisles and short transepts have been added, and the nave roof raised and supplied with a tall clerestorey. All this is early 16thc. work, as is the light and airy chancel. There is a W tower ofc.1300 with a battlement, which looks short and stumpy against the heightened nave. The church was restored in 1850, and the S porch dates from that period. Construction is of flint, the clerestorey rendered. The nave angle shafts are described here, together with a figural relief slab now housed in a curtained-off vestry at the W end of the S aisle.
- 77. St Andrew, Mutford, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Mutford is in NE Suffolk, set in low, rolling arable and pasture land 5 miles SW of the centre of Lowestoft. The village consists of houses and farms built alongside a network of narrow lanes with no particular focal point. The church is towards the N of the settlement, with Mutford Hall three-quarters of a mile to the SW, outside the village and alongside the stream called the Hundred River. St Andrew's stands on rising ground, and consists of a nave with a S aisle and S porch, a chancel and a round W tower with a W Galilee porch. The nave is of flint and where a N doorway might be expected, a 15thc. window has been inserted, one of two on this side. A wallpainting of At Christopher survives on the N wall; once part of a more extensive cycle. The early-14thc. S aisle has a four-bay arcade on slender, octagonal piers and windows characteristic of that date. The S doorway is also 14thc., under a 19thc. flint and ashlar porch. The aisle was originally connected to a chapel on the S side of the chancel, but this was removed in the 18thc, and the E aisle wall was rebuilt in brick. The arch from the chancel was similarly bricked up. Another blocked arch on the N side of the chancel indicates that there was once a chapel there too. The chancel itself is 14thc., of flint, rendered on the N side. Its E window has flowing tracery, and there are diagonal E buttresses with flushwork decoration, and flushwork arcading on the E chancel plinth. The W tower is tall and slender; round at the bottom with a 15thc. octagonal upper storey. Its bell-openings have lost their tracery, but flushwork pseudo-tracery on the alternating faces give an idea of their form. There is a battlemented parapet, also decorated with flushwork. The lower storey may be pre-Conquest. It contains two blocked, round-headed openings on the N face and two on the S, while on the W are two pointed lancets that may replace earlier openings. In the blocking of the lower S window is a chevron voussoir. To the W is the Galilee; 14thc. in its present form and said to be the only one in the country attached to a round tower. Built into the N interior nave wall towards the E end is a tomb recess with a chevron-decorated arch. The arch is certainly not original to the tomb. Pevsner offers two suggestions; that it was part of the 12thc. chancel arch, or that it was the arch from the tower to the W Galilee, which Suckling described as Norman in 1846. This postulates a lost Norman Galilee, of course, a tantalising idea. In 1927-36 general repairs to roofs, walls, seating and porch were carried out by W. Weir of Letchworth. The ceiling of the church was raised in 1926 and completely removed in 1974, exposing the roof beams, which were then restored. The Galilee was ruinous and ivy-covered in 1933 and was restored in the following year. The interior of the tower was restored in 1976, and the aisle roof leaded and its beams strengthened in 2004.
- 78. St Mary, Naughton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Naughton is a village in the rolling arable farmland of S central Suffolk, 9 miles W of the centre of Ipswich. It consists of houses with the church and a moated site at a junction of two minor roads just off the B1078 Sudbury to Needham Market road. Naughton Hall, alongside the church, is now a 17thc. building. A second moated site is 0.3 miles SW of the church and there are farms outside the village. St Mary's has a nave, chancel and W tower. The flint W tower is two storeys high and has a blocked round-headed window on the S side in the lower storey. This may thus be 12thc, but the upper storey has Y-tracery bell-openings ofc.1300. There is an embattled parapet. The W window is a replacement in 15thc. style, and the tower arch is pointed with mouldings dying into the embrasures. Nave and chancel are mortar-rendered, and all their windows are stylistically ofc.1300 except for one late-13thc. plate-tracery window in the chancel S wall, one with a cusped head in the nave S wall, and a 15thc. window in the chancel S wall. The chancel arch is 14th-15thc. There is a 14thc. piscina with a cusped arch towards the E end of the nave on the S wall, indicating the presence of an altar. The chancel piscina is ofc.1300. The S nave doorway is protected by a rendered porch, while the 13thc. N doorway has been blocked and fitted with a window. Set in the window splay is a 12thc. font that has been cut down, and this is the only Romanesque sculpture here.
- 79. St Botolph, North Cove, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Botolph's has a slim W tower of flint and brick, 13thc. in its lower parts with a later knapped flint embattled parapet. The nave and chancel are of flint, with brick buttresses and repairs on the S. The roof is of thatch. The only Romanesque feature is the S nave doorway, now under a 14thc. flint and brick porch. The N doorway and one N window are 13thc. The chancel contains 14thc. wall paintings generally considered among the finest in the county, and showing Passion scenes and a Doom. They were restored in the 1990s, when a good deal of 19thc. overpainting was removed.
- 80. St Mary, Nettlestead, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Nettlestead is a tiny settlement, just the church and a few houses, in rolling farmland 5 miles NW of the centre of Suffolk. When David Elisha Davy visited in the early 19thc. he noted the remains of the hall nearby. To the W of the church is the pasture of Church Meadow, and to the S a pond with a stream that runs into the river Gipping near Bramford, W of Ipswich.
- 81. All Saints, Newton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Newton is a village 2 miles to the E of Sudbury. The main Sudbury - Colchester road runs through the village, but the church and hall lie at the end of a side road 0.4 mile N of the village centre. The church had fallen into a state of disrepair by the 1960s, the nave roof in particular being in a perilous state, and the decision was taken to retain the chancel for parish use and declare the nave and tower redundant, and these were taken into the care of the Redundant Churches Fund (now CCT). The two parts are divided at the chancel arch, which is blocked with large windows above and glazed doors below, giving the sense at least of a continuous space. The nave is unaisled and its N doorway, now blocked to form a window, is 12thc. The S doorway is 13thc. and protected by a timber-framed porch, and the lateral nave windows were replaced in the early 14thc. On the S side is the wall-tomb of a lady dating from c.1300 with an effigy, and the nave also contains 14thc. wallpaintings of Incarnation scenes, discovered in 1967. The chancel is entirely 14thc. with a five-light reticulated E window, contemporary sedilia and piscina. It contains the elaborate wall-tomb of Margaret Boteler (d.1410). The west tower is 14thc. too, except for the battlemented brick parapet. The church is of flint with brick-faced buttresses and a modern vestry of knapped flint has been added to the N side of the chancel. The only Romanesque feature is the N doorway.
- 82. St Peter, Nowton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Nowton is in the Hundred of Thingoe and stands in flat, arable land, recently given over to rape crops, only 2 miles S of the centre of Bury St Edmunds. St Peter's has a nave with a N aisle, a short chancel with a S vestry and a W tower. The nave has a S doorway in situ and a N doorway reset in the 19thc. aisle. Also reset in the E wall of this aisle is a plain 12thc lancet. The S nave windows are round-headed but 19thc. and the S wall of the nave is mortar rendered. The N aisle is neo-Romanesque (Pevsner says 'painful neo-Norman') dating from 1843. There is no clerestorey but a dormer in the roof. The arcade is of four bays, and the exterior wall in flint with stone dressings, has the usual overblown detailing on the windows and a gable over the doorway. The chancel is ofc.1300, but was restored, and the vestry added, in 1876. The flint west tower is 14thc. and has no buttresses but a tall plinth and a polygonal south bell stair. When the church was visited the interior was being repainted and no internal photography was possible. The only Romanesque work is on the two nave doorways.
- 83. St Mary, Offton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Offton is some 7 miles NW of Ipswich in the centre of Suffolk. The village stands on the rising ground on the S bank of a stream that rises near Great Bricett and joins the river Gipping at Bramford, W of Ipswich. The village is compact, and the church stands at the NE end of the centre, with a moated site 0.3 m to the S. St Mary's has a nave, chancel and W tower. The nave has a plain 12thc. S doorway, now protected by an attractive 14thc. timber porch. The 14thc. N doorway now serves as the entrance from the church to a 20thc. vestry and lavatory block. The present nave windows are all 14th -15thc. The chancel has a 13thc. lancet in its N wall, otherwise the windows are 14th -15thc. There is no chancel arch, and the chancel and nave widths are the same, although the chancel roof is lower. The tower is plain 14thc. work with a battlemented parapet embellished with flushwork. Otherwise the church is mortar rendered except for the knapped flint E chancel wall and buttresses. The only Romanesque sculpture is on the S nave doorway.
- 84. St John the Baptist, Onehouse, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Onehouse is 10 miles E of Bury St Edmunds, just outside Stowmarket. St John's stands in arable farmland, with the moated hall site 100 yards to the south. It has an unaisled nave, chancel and round W tower. The tower, which bulges alarmingly in the middle, is of flint with a plain 13thc. lancet facing W and 13thc. bell-openings. Its embattled parapet is a later addition. The nave is of flint too, the south wall mortar rendered. On the N the render has been removed, and the masonry shows that it was originally shorter and lower. The original, shorter church may have been 12thc. Both nave doorways are plain 13thc. work, and the south has a 16thc. brick porch. The south nave windows have cusped Y-tracery,c.1300, but the cusping is inaccurately done. Buttresses of flint and modern brick have been added to each corner of the nave. The chancel was rebuilt by Herbert Green of Norwich in 1893. It is of mixed flint and rubble with brick quoins and gable; lateral windows in the samec.1300 style as the nave windows; and a three-light E window in the Perpendicular style. Some of the plaster rendering has been stripped off the interior walls, revealing them to be of flint in the nave but brick and flint in the chancel. There is no chancel arch. The only Romanesque sculpture here is the 12thc. font.
- 85. St Bartholomew, Orford, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Orford is a tiny coastal town in the sandlings of SE Suffolk, 16 miles due E of Ipswich. It was not mentioned in the Domesday Survey, but there was a successful port at the mouth of the river Alde and a market here by 1138. The town received a boost from the building of the castle by Henry II between 1165 and 1173, but its importance fell as the port silted up; the sea throwing up the long sand bar that now extends for over 5 miles from Orford Ness down to Hollesley. The town is simply laid out around the market place, with the church at its E end and the castle 0.27 km W of the market at the edge of the town. The road from Sudbourne runs right through the centre, alongside the market, to end at the quay at the town's S edge.
- 86. St Michael, Oulton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church In 1868 Oulton was described as a large and irregular village 2 miles W of Lowestoft, bordered by Oulton Broad on the SW and by the river Waveney. It was chiefly an agricultural village then, with a portion of the inhabitants engaged in the fisheries (National Gazetteer). Oulton Broad still forms a natural boundary to the S, and Oulton Marsh another to the W. Oulton Dyke, linking the broad and the river, runs through the marsh half a mile W of the western edge of Oulton. The church is on a low knoll on this western edge and the view over the marsh towards the dyke and the Waveney beyond is much as it must have been in 1868. This was the site of the old village too, but the centre has migrated away from the marshland to the N and W. Immediately to the E of the church now is a large housing estate, and immediately to the E of this is Lowestoft, which has spread to engulf Oulton village, stopping only at the edge of the marshes.
- 87. St Peter, Ousden, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Peter's has an aisled nave, central tower and chancel with a N chapel. The nave has original 12thc. features in one S window and N and S doorways (the N remodelled in the 13thc. and set under a modern porch; the S blocked to convert it to a window). The nave was extended westwards by some 20 feet (6 m) in 1861-63 by J. F. Clark of Norwich. There is an 18th-19thc. brick N chapel at the E end of the nave. The chancel has been rebuilt with a lowered roofline and a brick E wall, the side walls are rendered, but the E and S windows and the N doorway are 18th-19thc. and the entire chancel must be of this date. The 12thc. tower is a substantial flint structure with a later embattled parapet. There are small lancets at two levels of its lower storey on the N and S faces, and 12thc. single bell-openings in the set back upper storey. The angles of the upper storey have shafts. Inside, it has tower arches to E and W. Construction is generally of flint, except for the 18th-19thc. N chapel and chancel, which are of brick. There are a few courses of brick alternating with the flints around the SW angle of the tower's upper storey. Romanesque sculpture is found in the two nave doorways, the tower bell-openings and the tower arches.
- 88. St Mary, Pakenham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Pakenham is just under 5 miles E of the centre of Bury St Edmunds in rolling arable land. The village is just over half a mile long, running from Pakenham Manor in the W to the church at the E end. The village lies in the shallow valley that runs from Grimstone End in the N to Bartonmere in the S, and the church stands on a promontory overlooking the village.
- 89. St Peter, Palgrave, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Palgrave is in the N of central Suffolk, half a mile S of the river Waveney that forms the border with Norfolk, and less than a mile S of Diss. Half a mile to the S runs the A143 linking Bury St Edmunds with Diss and Norwich. The village has spread out from its nucleus, with the church in the centre, and is surrounded by arable farmland. There was a second church in Palgrave, still surviving in a ruinous state in 1721 but entirely gone now. This was the chapel of St John, staffed by priests from St Edmundsbury Abbey, and it stood to the N of the road to Wortham, a mile to the SW, near the present St John's Farm.
- 90. St Michael, Peasenhall, Suffolk, England
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Chapel Peasenhall stands in hilly arable land in E Suffolk, between Saxmundham and Halesworth. The village is clustered around the crossing of two Roman roads. One is now the A1120 and the other formerly linked Harleston and Saxmundham. The church stands at the crossroads in the centre of the village and immediately to the S is the factory of Smyth and Sons. James Smyth invented an improved seed drill in 1800, and his vigorous promotion of a genuinely better product led to expansion within the village and to the building of workers' terraced housing, as his drills became the brand leader throughout southern England. Smyth's enterprise is the reason for the unusual presence in rural Suffolk of what is essentially an industrial village. The surrounding land was always farmed, but the farmhouses are now outside the village centre.
- 91. St Catherine, Pettaugh, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Pettaugh lies on the A1120, midway between Stowmarket and Framlingham, and 9 miles N of the centre of Ipswich. The village clusters around a staggered crossroad on the A1120, but it is not a busy road and the settlement retains its village character. The church stands alongside the main road at the E end of this compact village. The landscape is the typical arable farmland of the East Anglian plain, and a stream runs past the E end of the church, eventually joining the river Deben SE of Debenham.
- 92. St Mary, Polstead, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Polstead stands on a hilltop on the N side of the Box valley, some 8 miles N of Colchester and 11 miles W of Ipswich, set in a landscape of woodland and pasture. Church and hall are close together at the W of the village. St Mary's is a flint church with an aisled nave, chancel and W tower with a spire. Evidence of a unaisled 11thc. church can be seen in the long and short quoins alongside the tower in the W wall of the S nave aisle. The 12thc. nave arcades are of four bays, the westernmost bay being separated from the rest by a short stretch of walling. Above the arcade arches are the blocked openings of the 12thc. clerestory, now rendered obsolete by the raising of the aisles. At the W end can be seen the inside of the 12thc. facade, with the rere-arch of the W doorway and a window above. The elaborate front of the W doorway is now inside the 14thc. tower. At the E end, the chancel arch is also 12thc. and goes with the arcades, and the narrow, boxy chancel has a blocked 12thc. window. The most surprising feature of this campaign is that the arches of the arcade and chancel arch, the rere-arch of the W doorway, all the windows and the chancel quoins are of brick and tufa blocks. Both Pevsner and Mortlock point out that this is unlikely to be reused Roman brick, as the size is wrong. These may therefore be the earliest English bricks in the country — certainly predating those of Little Coggeshall Abbey (Essex) ofc.1200, which are similar in size. The nave aisles were been heightened and widened in the 14thc.; the E windows of the nave aisles are reticulated (S) or flowing (N), perhaps ofc.1350, but the lateral aisle windows are late Perpendicular, as is the chancel E window — evidence of a major campaign around 1500. The 14thc. campaign also included the building of the tower, the addition of two-light lateral chancel windows and the replacement of the nave roof timbers. At the same time the lateral nave doorways and porches were added, and a start was made on replacing the nave arcades with pointed arches. The W bay of the S arcade was replaced, and some work done on the E arches of both arcades, but the project was abandoned. The exterior of the nave roof is now double-pitched with a flat top. Thefts of lead from the roof led to the cladding being replaced with stainless steel in 1983-88, and dormer windows were added at this time to compensate for the lack of a clerestory. Romanesque sculpture recorded below is found in the W nave doorway, the nave arcades and the chancel arch.
- 93. St Mary, Poslingford, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Poslingford is in the SW corner of Suffolk, 2 miles N of the Essex border and 6 miles E of Haverhill. The village lies in the valley of a stream that runs S into the Stour at Clare, and a road following the same course forms the High Street. The church is in the village centre alongside this road, on the rising ground on the W side, and Poslingford Hall is immediately to the S of it.
- 94. St Mary, Preston St Mary, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Preston St Mary is in the rolling arable land between Bury St Edmunds and Sudbury, towards the W of the county. The nearest town is Lavenham, 2 miles to the W. Preston stands on a low hill above a stream to the E that runs S into the river Brett. It is an attractive village; its main street occupied by houses and a pub, with the church at its southern end, facing the street and alongside the hall. St Mary's has an aisled nave with a N porch, chancel with N vestry and W tower. The nave has a 15thc. clerestory and three-bay aisles with 15thc. windows. The N porch is 15thc. too, but very elaborate with flushwork decoration, niches on the buttresses and a battlemented parapet. The chancel is 14thc. in its details, with one reticulated N window and flowing tracery in the E and S windows. The N vestry is 19thc., with a N window with Perpendicular-style tracery. The tower has diagonal buttresses to the E, a polygonal SE bell-stair and a battlemented parapet with gargoyles below. The W face has a 15thc. doorway with kings as label stops and niches to either side and above for statuary. The bell openings are two-light reticulated with triangular heads. The nave, aisles and chancel are of flint, septaria and reused brick or tile - a typical Suffolk mixture. The tower is of roughly-knapped flints. The church contains an important early Romanesque font.
- 95. All Saints, Ramsholt, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Ramsholt church is on the estuary of the river Deben in SE Suffolk, 4 miles from its mouth. The village is on the E side of the estuary 3 miles from its mouth in arable land that rises gently from the river. Ramsholt Lodge is half a mile upstream of the church and the Ramsholt Arms half a mile downstream, and there is little else here apart from a farm half a mile inland, towards the road back to Shottisham, the nearest village.
- 96. St Peter, Redisham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Peter's is a flint church of nave and chancel with a wooden bellcote over the W end of the nave, replacing the tower, which collapsed in the 19thc. There is no chancel arch, but sections of wall with responds between nave and chancel. The nave has been heightened and repaired in brick, and the exterior walls were once rendered. The church was repaired and the present pews installed by J. D. Botwright and J. Clarke in 1861-62. The nave walls presumably date from the 12thc., since there are Romanesque N and S doorways in-situ, the N blocked and partly obscured by an inconveniently sited shed; the S protected by a simple brick porch.
- 97. St Mary, Rickinghall Inferior, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Rickinghall is a substantial village alongside the A143 Bury St Edmunds to Diss road, some 13 miles NE of Bury. The country hereabouts is rolling arable farmland. The road through Rickinghall runs into the neighbouring village of Botesdale, the two making a densely populated settlement over a mile long. The A143 Bury to Diss road acts as a bypass, but while most of the Rickinghall and Botesdale, including St Mary's Rickinghall Inferior, lie to the N of the bypass, the church of Rickinghall Superior stands on a hill to the S and is consequently cut off from the rest of the village. Rickinghall Superior (confusingly also dedicated to St Mary) is now redundant and in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust. An Iron Age settlement at Calke Wood, a mile to the west, and a Romano-British pottery kiln found at Rickinghall Inferior and dating fromc.100 AD attests to the early occupation of the site.
- 98. St Giles, Risby, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Risby is a small village in W Suffolk, just 3½ miles W of the centre of Bury St Edmunds. The church stands on the main street, E of the village centre. It is of flint and septaria and has a round W tower, a long unaisled nave and a chancel of the same height with a 19thc. N vestry. The tower has been called pre-Conquest, but its earliest diagnostic features are Romanesque; single high lancets with monolithic round heads to N and S and the tall, irregular tower arch and round-headed opening above it. The bell-stage is curiously fenestrated. It has two rows of three round-headed openings to the S, and two rows of two to the N. A single E bell-opening and a 14thc. W window are later insertions, and the battlemented parapet is later still. The nave must be 12thc. too, from the evidence of a blocked N window visible only on the interior. The chancel arch has 12thc. jambs with carved imposts, including two reused as plinths for its bases. The arch itself is steeply pointed and double chamfered, and dates from well into the 13thc., but 12thc. carved voussoirs have been reused on its E face. Also of the 13thc. are a lancet on the N nave wall, both nave doorways (the S under a 15thc. porch) and the S chancel doorway. Another major campaign took place in the first half of the 14thc., when the nave and chancel walls were heightened and buttresses added. Two-light reticulated or Y-tracery windows were inserted on both nave and chancel at this time, and the chancel was given a three-light reticulated E window. On the N nave wall are the remains of 13thc. and 14thc. wallpaintings. Romanesque features described below are the tower and chancel arches.
- 99. St Andrew, Rushmere St Andrew, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Rushmere St Andrew is a village on the NE edge of Ipswich, its parish running S from the village in a long strip to include the housing developments of outer E Ipswich. Rushmere itself retains much of its village character, with the church at the W end of the main street, the open space of Rushmere Heath to the S, and farmland to the N, falling away to the valley of the river Fynn, a tributary of the Deben.
- 100. St Mary, Santon Downham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The village stands on the southern bank of the Little Ouse that forms the boundary with Norfolk. The tiny village of Santon, which was subsumed into the parish in 1963, is over the river in Norfolk. Santon Downham is in the middle of Thetford forest and is now the home of the headquarters of the Forestry Commission for the East Anglian district. Downham Hall, N of the church, near the river, was the focus of a sporting estate until the early years of the 20thc., but the Mackenzie heir sold up in 1918, the Forestry Commission acquired the land in1924, and the hall was demolished from 1925. New houses for the Commission workers were built around the green, to the W of the church, in the 1950s, effectively shifting the village centre to the SW. Between 1920 and 1970 Santon Downham was almost entirely devoted to forestry, with almost all of its male inhabitants employed by the Commission. Since the '70s many of the residents have exercised their right to buy their houses, and less than one in twenty of the 250 present inhabitants work in forestry. The area was anciently dominated by warrens, with Santon Warren to the N, Santon Downham Warren to the S. These were set up in the Middle Ages (see Preface to Suffolk), often by the monastic houses of Ely and Bury. As at Lakenheath, the sandy soil was prey to sandstorms, especially if it was overgrazed by the rabbits, and one such engulfed the village of Santon Downham over a period of several decades, culminating in 1668.
- 101. St Andrew, Sapiston, Suffolk, England
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Parish church (redundant) The church and Grange Farm stand together alongside a ford (now too deep for use) over the Black Bourn immediately SE of Honington in N Suffolk. In fact the churches of Honington and Sapiston are only half a mile apart. The two parishes were combined in 1972, and two years later Sapiston church was made redundant. The village of Sapiston has migrated N from the ford (at the Black Death according to local tradition), to cluster along the Honington - Barningham road, leaving church and farm to guard the ford in isolation. All Saints is a flint and septaria church of nave, chancel and W tower. The nave has a 12thc. S doorway under a 14thc. porch, but the windows are all 13thc. or later. Inside there is no chancel arch. The roofs indicate a two-bay chancel, but the chancel step is set one bay further E. The chancel windows indicate a date ofc.1300-50, and the N and E walls of the chancel are rendered. The tower is of three storeys and unbuttressed at the W; its arch is tall without capitals, and its Y-tracery bell-openings are ofc.1300. The nave and chancel roofs are of red tile, but the church was previously thatched. There was a restoration in 1847. The S doorway is the only Romanesque feature.
- 102. St Lawrence, South Cove, Suffolk, England
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Parish church South Cove is 1.5 miles from the sea, in the low arable lands between Southwold and Lowestoft. It hardly qualifies as a village, consisting as it does of the church and Church Farm alongside, with a cottage or two. Its parishioners were traditionally farm workers and fishermen. St Lawrence's church is of flint with a nave and chancel of equal width covered by a single thatched roof, and a tall W tower. The nave N and S doorways are 12thc., the S protected by a tiny 19thc. porch of knapped flint. The nave is earlier than this, however; the removal of 19thc. render in 1995 revealed a vertical joint at the NE angle of the nave, where it turned to meet a chancel that was originally narrower. This angle was of the large, uncut stones (erratics) typical of pre-Conquest masonry. The present chancel apparently dates from the mid-13thc. (piscina) and its Y-tracery windows were added c.1300. Some of the nave windows were replaced at that period too, and the other nave windows were renewed in the 15thc. There is no chancel arch. The tower is 14thc. and has diagonal buttresses and an embattled parapet, both decorated with flushwork. The W window is 15thc. The W bell-opening has been replaced with a plain arched opening with a single central mullion. Romanesque sculpture survives in the two nave doorways.
- 103. All Saints, South Elmham All Saints, Suffolk, England
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Parish church (redundant) The seven South Elmham villages; St James, All Saints, St Nicholas, St Cross, St Margaret, St Michael and St Peter, to which may be added Homersfield, sometimes referred to as South Elmham St Mary, lie in a scattered group between Bungay and Halesworth in NE Suffolk, to the W of the Roman road known as Stone Street. North Elmham (the centre of the see until 1071) is over 30 miles away, to the NW of Norwich, and both apparently took their name from Aethelmaer (bishop of East Anglia 1047-1070) the landholder before the Conquest. This is not certain; Tricker suggests that the name meant villages where elm trees grew. The land here is flat, generally arable and sparsely populated; the villages rarely more than a few houses clustered around the church without shops or pubs. All Saints is the easternmost of the South Elmham villages, consisting of some twenty houses and three or four farms on a triangle of lanes. The church and Church Farm, with a 17thc. moated farmhouse, lie off the road to St Cross more than half a mile W of this cluster. A further half mile to the W was the church of South Elmham St Nicholas, now entirely demolished, although traceried windows at St Peter's Hall may have come from there (see South Elmham St Peter). The parish of All Saints was united with St Nicholas in 1557, by 1620 St Nicholas's church was abandoned, and in 1737 the combined parish of South Elmham All Saints-cum-St Nicholas was formed based at All Saints. In 1978 All Saints was declared redundant and its care was assumed by what is now the Churches Conservation Trust.
- 104. St George, South Elmham St Cross, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The seven South Elmham villages; St James, All Saints, St Nicholas, St Cross, St Margaret, St Michael and St Peter, to which may be added Homersfield, sometimes referred to as South Elmham St Mary, lie in a scattered group between Bungay and Halesworth in NE Suffolk, to the W of the Roman road known as Stone Street. North Elmham (the centre of the see until 1071) is over 30 miles away, to the NW of Norwich, and both apparently took their name from Aethelmaer (bishop of E Anglia 1047-1070) the landholder before the Conquest. This is not certain; Tricker suggests that the name meant villages where elm trees grew. The land here is flat, generally arable and sparsely populated; the villages rarely more than a few houses clustered around the church without shops or pubs.
- 105. St James, South Elmham St James, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The seven South Elmham villages; St James, All Saints, St Nicholas, St Cross, St Margaret, St Michael and St Peter, to which may be added Homersfield, sometimes referred to as South Elmham St Mary, lie in a scattered group between Bungay and Halesworth in NE Suffolk, to the W of the Roman road known as Stone Street. North Elmham (the centre of the see until 1071) is over 30 miles away, to the NW of Norwich, and both apparently took their name from Aethelmaer (bishop of East Anglia 1047-1070) the landholder before the Conquest. This is not certain; Tricker suggests that the name meant villages where elm trees grew. The land here is flat, generally arable and sparsely populated; the villages rarely more than a few houses clustered around the church without shops or pubs.
- 106. St Margaret, South Elmham St Margaret, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The seven South Elmham villages; St James, All Saints, St Nicholas, St Cross, St Margaret, St Michael and St Peter, to which may be added Homersfield, sometimes referred to as South Elmham St Mary, lie in a scattered group between Bungay and Halesworth in NE Suffolk, to the W of the Roman road known as Stone Street. North Elmham (the centre of the see until 1071) is over 30 miles away, to the NW of Norwich, and both apparently took their name from Aethelmaer (bishop of East Anglia 1047-1070) the landholder before the Conquest. This is not certain; Tricker suggests that the name meant villages where elm trees grew. The land here is flat, generally arable and sparsely populated; the villages rarely more than a few houses clustered around the church without shops or pubs.
- 107. St Michael, South Elmham St Michael, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The seven South Elmham villages; St James, All Saints, St Nicholas, St Cross, St Margaret, St Michael and St Peter, to which may be added Homersfield, sometimes referred to as South Elmham St Mary, lie in a scattered group between Bungay and Halesworth in NE Suffolk, to the W of the Roman road known as Stone Street. North Elmham (the centre of the see until 1071) is over 30 miles away, to the NW of Norwich, and both apparently took their name from Aethelmaer (bishop of East Anglia 1047-1070) the landholder before the Conquest. This is not certain; Tricker suggests that the name meant villages where elm trees grew. The land here is flat, generally arable and sparsely populated; the villages rarely more than a few houses clustered around the church without shops or pubs.
- 108. St Peter, South Elmham St Peter, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The seven South Elmham villages, St James, All Saints, St Nicholas, St Cross, St Margaret, St Michael and St Peter, to which may be added Homersfield, sometimes referred to as South Elmham St Mary, lie in a scattered group between Bungay and Halesworth in NE Suffolk, to the W of the Roman road known as Stone Street. North Elmham (the centre of the see until 1071) is over 30 miles away, to the NW of Norwich, and both apparently took their name from Aethelmaer (bishop of East Anglia 1047-1070) the landholder before the Conquest. This is not certain; Tricker suggests that the name meant villages where elm trees grew. The land here is flat, generally arable and sparsely populated; the villages rarely more than a few houses clustered around the church without shops or pubs.
- 109. St John the Baptist, Shadingfield, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St John's is a flint church with a tall W tower and an aisleless nave and chancel forming a single space within, but separately roofed from the outside. The nave and chancel date fromc.1200 or slightly later, to judge from the N and S nave doorways and plain lancets in the N wall of the chancel and both walls of the nave. The S doorway is protected by a 16thc. brick porch. The square W tower is Perpendicular with diagonal buttresses decorated with simple flushwork. It is patched with bricks and underwent a major restoration in 1983. The nave walls are rendered. The nave doorways are described below, although they are likely to date from the 13thc. rather than the 12thc.
- 110. St Peter, Sibton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Sibton is set in rolling arable and woodland on the S side of the Yox valley in W Suffolk, 5 miles S of Halesworth and 4 miles N of Saxmundham. It is immediately E of Peasenhall, on the Roman road that is now the A1120. The church stands on the A1120 at the eastern end of the village, and to the N of it is the site of Sibton Abbey, founded around 1150 and the only Cistercian house in the county. It is now ruinous and surrounded by woodland. Half a mile further E is Sibton Park and the hall site. St Peter’s has a nave with a N aisle and S porch, a chancel with a N organ room and vestry and a W tower. The flint nave has ac.1200 S doorway under a 19thc. porch, and the S windows, replaced in the 19thc., have plate tracery. The knapped flint N aisle dates fromc.1500, and has a four-bay arcade, broad, three-light windows and a battlemented parapet outside. The N doorway to the aisle is a re-set 13thc. piece. The flint chancel was rebuilt in the 19thc., with a S doorway that copies motifs from the 12thc. nave doorway. The tower has a plain and continuous pointed arch to the nave, but is substantially 15thc. and constructed of flints, knapped flints and septaria. It has diagonal buttresses with flushwork decoration and a battlemented parapet with flushwork and gargoyles below. A clear masonry break shows that the bell stage has been rebuilt or raised. The only feature recorded here is the Transitional S nave doorway.
- 111. St Margaret, Somerton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Margaret's has an aisleless nave with a blocked N doorway and a porch protecting the S doorway; a chancel with a long S chapel under a separate roof and a W tower. The N doorway indicates that the nave is 12thc., and the S doorway is a 13thc. modification. The brick and flint porch is 16thc. The chancel and its chapel are 14thc. Both E windows are Perpendicular, but of different dates. The E wall has been mortar rendered and inappropriate barge-boards added. To the N of the chancel is a lean-to of brick, roofed with the chancel. The W tower is Perpendicular, with diagonal buttresses and flushwork panels on the plinth. Construction is of flint with ashlar dressings. The only Romanesque sculpture is on the blocked N doorway.
- 112. St Nicholas, Stanningfield, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Stanningfield is in central W Suffolk, 5 miles S of the centre of Bury St Edmunds, in the rolling farmland typical of this part of the county. The Roman road that forms part of the A134 from Bury to Sudbury runs a mile to the E of the village, which consists of scattered dwellings and farm buildings on a network of by-roads. The centre, such as it is, has migrated half a mile east to Hoggards Green, leaving the church surrounded by just a few houses. The seat of the lords of Stanningfield was at Coldham Hall, 0.8 mile SW of the church. St Nicholas's is a flint church with a W tower, a nave with a wooden S porch and a chancel. The nave is 12thc, judging from the small round-headed windows in the lateral walls and the blocked N doorway, but Y-tracery windows and a new S doorway were addedc.1300. The chancel, of the same height and width as the nave, dates from the same period. Its arch is tall and it has interesting tracery combining geometrical and intersecting features in its N, S and E windows. The S priest's doorway is blocked. On the N side stands the tomb of Thomas Rokewood (d.1521) with the shields of Rokewood and Clopton (Thomas's wife's family) in quatrefoils on the chest. The tower is low and of irregular knapped flints with brick and tile incorporated. It has a plinth and heavy integral buttresses, diagonal at the W and straight at the E, and a square SE stair. The W window is three-light Perpendicular with a transom. The bell-openings are simple lancets with triangular heads and the roof is pyramidal and slate-covered. The tower was taller, but the upper stage was removed when it became unstable in the 1880s, and the roof and bell-openings date from that period. Only the N doorway is recorded here.
- 113. All Saints, Stoke Ash, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The village of Stoke Ash consists of houses and farm buildings on loops of road off the A140 Norwich to Ipswich road, six miles S of Diss and 16 miles N of Ipswich. It lies between the river Dove, a tributary of the Waveney, and one of the Dove's own tributaries, in arable farmland. Stoke Ash was a Roman centre and the A140 a Roman road. Considerable finds of pottery, brooches and coins alongside the tributary suggest a waterfront settlement, and there is evidence of Roman industry and agriculture nearby. The church stands some 180 metres E of the main road, with the hall site nearby.
- 114. St Margaret, Stoven, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Stoven is in E Suffolk, 5 miles S of Beccles and 5 miles from the coast. The village consists of the church, a few houses and a public house on a low hill in a landscape that is otherwise is flat and arable. A moated site 300 yards N of the church may indicate a hall. St Margaret's was entirely rebuilt in a neo-Norman style between 1849 and 1858, but the 12thc. S doorway was re-used, and provided sources for much of the Victorian ornament. As it stands, the church consists of a nave and chancel, both mortar rendered, and a flint W tower. Where the mortar is flaking on the N side the body of the church is seen to be of flint and bricks. In 1808, before the rebuilding, the church was described by Davy who reported that it had a nave and chancel under a thatched roof and a small square steeple of flint. An 1823 description records that there were no buttresses on the side walls, and that there were three small pieces of stone with grotesque carvings let into the wall above the N door. These carvings are now lost.
- 115. St Peter, Stutton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Stutton is an extensive settlement set in the arable farmland on the N bank of the Stour estuary, 6 miles S of the centre of Ipswich. It lies along the B1080 road that follows the estuary a mile inland, and along by-roads running S to the river bank. The church is at the eastern end of the village, with Stutton House (built as the rectory in 1750) immediately S of it. Stutton Hall (built by Sir Edmund Jermy in 1553) is at the SW end of the village, some 1½ miles away. St Peter's is a complex building with many additions. Nave and chancel are similar in height, the chancel slightly taller. On the S side, the tower acts also as a porch into the nave, and a transeptal S vestry has been added to the chancel. On the N is a transept added to the E end of the nave with the Lady Chapel E of this, alongside the chancel. All is of flint and pebbles, but the N wall of the nave has been rendered and whitewashed. The nave is 14thc. with cusped Y-tracery windows. The tower is early 15thc. and of flint with Bath stone dressings with diagonal buttresses on the southern angles and an embatttled parapet decorated with chequered flushwork. The remainder of the church results from various Victorian campaigns. The north transept was added in 1862 to accommodate schoolchildren, and in 1875 the Lady Chapel was added to the E of it. The chancel was rebuilt in the same year. Its three-light cusped intersecting E window is said to be an exact copy of the original, and if so this suggests an early 14thc date. The S vestry dates from 1879 and serves as an organ chamber. It was enlarged to accommodate a bigger organ in 1902. In 1975 the arches separating the N transept and Lady Chapel from the main vessel were blocked with glass panels. In the external E wall of the S vestry is a reset lancet window, 11th-12thc. in date, which is the only Romanesque feature of the church.
- 116. All Saints, Sudbourne, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Sudbourne is a village in SE Suffolk, situated in the so-called Wilford peninsula between the estuaries of the Alde and the Deben, 3½ miles SW of Aldeburgh and 9 miles E of Woodbridge. The land here is wooded; Sudbourne Great Wood is N of the village, and Tunstall Forest to the E and W. The village itself is substantial. Its centre clusters around a junction on the road from Snape to Orford. Sudbourne Park and the Hall site are a mile outside the village to the SW, and the church stands apart on the edge of Tunstall Forest, 0.8 mile SE of the village centre.
- 117. St Mary, Sweffling, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Sweffling is in East Suffolk, between Saxmundham and Framlingham. The village is on a hill overlooking the river Alde, in rolling arable land. The church is in the centre of the village, set well back from the high street. St Mary's has a nave with a S porch and a N vestry at the W end, a chancel and a W tower. The nave has large, 12thc. quoins at the angles, and N and S doorways ofc.1200; the N now in the vestry and the S under a 15thc. gabled, knapped flint porch with a battlement, niches for sculpture and flushwork decoration. The nave itself is of flint and septaria, but the walls have been heightened with brick. The nave windows date from the 15thc. The N vestry is modern and mortar rendered. The flint chancel walls have not been raised like those of the nave, and the pitch of the roof is much steeper. In the E wall is an intersecting tracery window ofc.1300, and this wall contains the blocked heads and jambs of two small 12thc. windows; one near the apex of the gable and the other to the N of thec.1300 window. Neither is likely to be in its original setting. On the N and S walls are pointed lancets, and the segmental-headed S chancel doorway may be 14thc. Inside, the piscina, with cusping in the arch, is of the same date, but the chancel arch is low, broad and segmental, probably dating from the 18thc. Pevsner describes the tower as Dec. but it may be earlier as its diagonal buttresses are an addition, as is the upper storey of c.1300. The W window dates from the same time, and a flushwork panel has been added below it, with more flushwork on the buttresses. The parapet, unusually, is not embattled but has flushwork decoration. Repairs to the church were carried out by C. P. Cleverly of Stowmarket in 1978-82. Only the two nave doorways are recorded below.
- 118. St Mary, Swilland, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Swilland is a village in central Suffolk, 5.5 miles N of the centre of Ipswich. It extends along a side road off the B1077 Ipswich to Debenham road running approximately N-S, with the church and hall at the N end and Swilland manor 0.3 mile to the NW. The landscape here is the typical arable farmland of the East Anglian plain.
- 119. St Margaret, Syleham, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Syleham is 6 miles E of Diss; the church standing alongside the river Waveney which forms the Norfolk border. The land is largely arable country of low hills, but cattle graze in the pastures by the river. The church stands alone, the rest of the village standing on a low hill 0.7 miles to the SE.
- 120. St Ethelbert, Tannington, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Tannington is towards the E of the county, 14 miles N of Ipswich and 4 miles NW of Framlingham. The land here is arable and fairly flat. The village consists of a few dwellings and farms scattered in a triangle bounded by the three residences of Tannington Hall (to the N), Tannington Lodge (to the E) and Tannington Place (to the W). Braiseworth Hall is also nearby (not to be confused with the other Braiseworth near Diss, just 7 miles away). The church stands in fields alongside Tannington Place. It consists of a nave and chancel in one, with a S porch to the nave and a N vestry to the chancel, and a W tower. Nave and chancel are of flint, the nave only rendered with mortar. The nave has a blocked 12thc. N doorway. The S nave and chancel doorways and the nave and chancel windows all date from the 14thc. to 15thc. The battlemented S porch, decorated with flushwork and with a niche for sculpture over the entrance, is dateable by wills toc.1450. The E window has the intersecting tracery ofc.1300, and the piscina is of the same period. Inside there is no chancel arch. The tower is 15thc. and built of knapped flint with diagonal buttresses, a SE bell stair and a plinth decorated with chequered flushwork. It has a battlemented parapet. A date of 1879 on the rainwater heads indicates a restoration. The only Romanesque sculpture is on the N doorway of c.1200.
- 121. St Peter, Theberton, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Theberton is a small village in east Suffolk, 3 miles E of Saxmundham and 2½ from the sea. It stands on a rise in the low country SW of the marshy Minsmere Level, with the church in the centre of the village and Theberton Hall 0.3 mile away to the NW. St Peter's consists of a nave and chancel in one with a thatched single roof, a S aisle and S porch at the W end of the nave, a modern brick vestry covering the N doorway, also at the W end of the nave, and a round W tower. The 12thc. church consisted of the present nave without its aisle and the western section of the chancel. A corbel table survives from this, occupying the western part of the chancel on both sides, and there is a 12thc. string course on the N side of the chancel only. The N nave doorway survives inside the modern vestry, and there is a 12thc. window, now blocked, in the N wall of the nave. The round tower is 12thc. too, although the octagonal upper story was addedc.1300. It has Y-tracery bell openings on its cardinal faces, and similar Y-tracery flushwork on the intermediate faces. The tower arch was replaced around the same time. The 15thc. embattled parapet also has flushwork decoration. A W window was inserted in the tower in the 15thc. The chancel may have been lengthenedc.1300, using a mixed facing of flints and reused material, including shaft sections and broken plain corbels. The S priest's doorway dates from this time, as does the Y-tracery N window inserted in the western section of the chancel. Its companion on the S side is 15thc., and those in the eastern section are 16thc. with brick mullions and arches. The E wall has been rebuilt in a curious mixture of flint, stone rubble and brick, more or less decoratively arranged. It contains a three-light 19thc. window in a Perpendicular style. Returning to the nave, a short S aisle with a porch at its W end was added in the 15thc. but the aisle was rebuilt by L. N. Cottingham under the patronage of the Rev. C. M. Doughty of Theberton Hall in 1846. This aisle is now called the Doughty Chapel, and its arcade is painted. Romanesque sculpture is found on the N doorway, the blocked N window, the chancel corbel table and the string course below it.
- 122. St Peter, Thorington, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Peter's has an aisleless nave and chancel, both rendered, and a round W tower of flint. The nave has very thick walls, probably 11thc., which have been reduced in thickness in their lower parts inside in order, according to Cautley, to increase the available width. There are 13thc. N and S doorways; the N under a porch, the S now giving access to a 19thc. flint vestry. On the exterior, above the S vestry, can be seen a chip-carved arch, identified by Pevsner as 'the surround of a lavish window.' The chancel arch is wooden, and the chancel largely a rebuilding of 1862. The elaborate tower arch is 19thc. neo-Romanesque, but an original chip-carved voussoir is reset above it. The tower is of three storeys. In the first is a 19thc. neo-Romanesque W window; the second is articulated as a band of blind arcading with plain 12thc. lancets at the cardinal points (the E visible inside the church). The third storey has 12thc. double bell-openings at the cardinal points. The tower is capped by an unusual early-16thc. octagonal parapet of brick with triple-stepped merlons. The font, while 13thc., is of Sussex marble and of a type common in Sussex. It may be an import. A photograph is included, but no description. Romanesque sculpture is found in the bell-openings of the tower, the arch in the S wall of the nave, and the voussoir above the tower arch.
- 123. St Mary, Thornham Parva, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The Thornhams, Magna and Parva, flank Thornham Hall and its park. Until the end of the 19thc. the estate boasted a hall, Tudor with an 18thc. facade, surrounded by an extensive park. Most of the hall was demolishedc.1900, and the rest was destroyed by fire in the late 1940s. The present hall is modern, and the estate has been converted for use as a field centre, a commercial market garden and a site for small businesses. Excavations in the estate have provided evidence of continuous occupation in the area from the Neolithic period to the present. The surrounding landscape is flattish and given over to arable cultivation. Thornham Parva lies to the N of the hall, some 2 miles W of Eye in central North Suffolk. The settlement is dispersed and sparsely populated with no real centre apart from the church, which lies just off the road from Thornham Magna and the Hall.
- 124. St Martin, Trimley St Martin, Suffolk, England
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Parish church The Trimleys, St Martin and St Mary, are adjoining parishes on the NW outskirts of Felixstowe. Together they make an elongated settlement bounded on the E and S by the A14, and on the W by Trimley Marshes and the Orwell estuary. Plans for expansion to the W and between the two villages are driven by the need for extra housing for Felixstowe, but they are meeting vigorous local opposition. The churches of St Martin and St Mary stand at the edges of their parishes, side-by-side on the high street that runs through the centre of both villages. There was once a wall between the two churchyards, corresponding to the parish boundary, but this has gone now. Although both churches are still consecrated, St Martin's is maintained for liturgical use, while St Mary's is largely given over to community activities. St Martin's has a nave with a transeptal N chapel and a S porch, a chancel with a N vestry and a S organ room, and a W tower. The mortar-rendered nave appears to date from the early 14thc., to judge from the N and S doorways (the S now under a 20thc. brick and timber porch). The nave windows are 19thc. replacements in an early-14thc. style. The N transept is separated from the nave by a two-bay arcade. It is of brick with replacement windows in 15thc. style. The N gable has been rebuilt using modern brick. The chancel is also of brick and is entirely 19thc., including the vestry with its mortar-rendered N extension, and the rendered S organ room. The 15thc. tower is of brick, rendered on all faces except the E. It has a battlemented parapet and diagonal W buttresses, also of brick and unrendered. The only feature that may be Romanesque is the font.
- 125. St Martin, Tuddenham St Martin, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Tuddenham St Martin is 3 miles NE of the centre of Ipswich (and only a mile from its outskirts), but the village occupies a spectacular site straddling the steeply sloping banks of the river Fynn. Its main street runs from E to W, falling to the bridge over the river and rising through the trees towards Tuddenham Hall on the other side. The houses and church are on the W bank; the church on a hill above the village on the S side of the High Street.
- 126. St Michael, Tunstall, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Tunstall is a good-sized village in E Suffolk, towards the S, 7 miles NE of Woodbridge and 6 miles from the coast. The landscape here is flat arable and heathland. To the E is Tunstall forest and to the S the disused Bentwaters airfield. The church stands alongside the main street at the eastern end of the village.
- 127. St Peter, Ubbeston, Suffolk, England
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Private house, formerly parish church Ubbeston is in central E Suffolk, towards the N of the county, 5 miles SW of Halesworth, in the arable boulder-clay plateau typical of High Suffolk. The church and hall site that are all that remain of the village are sited on the rising N bank of a stream that flows eastwards to join the river Blyth at Halesworth. There is a slightly larger settlement at Ubbeston Green, 0.4 miles to the S.
- 128. St Mary, Ufford, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Ufford is a substantial village in SE Suffolk, clustering around a network of by-roads off the old road from Woodbridge to Wickham Market, and now bounded to the W by the new road - the A12 Ufford by-pass. To the E of the village the river Deben flows from N to S, and the church overlooks the pastures of its water meadow.
- 129. St Mary, Uggeshall, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Uggeshall stands in rolling arable land in E Suffolk, 6 miles S of Beccles and 5 miles inland. The church, along with Church Farm and Manor Farm form an eastern nucleus with Uggeshall Hall 0.7 miles to the N, and the main cluster of houses half a mile to the west. The church has a nave with a taller chancel, both thatched, and a solid and stocky W tower with a wooden bell stage, also thatched. The nave is of rendered flint and can be dated to the 12thc. by its N and S doorways. There is a 13thc. lancet at the W end of the S wall, and the other nave windows have Y-tracery or Perpendicular tracery, pointing to remodellingsc.1300 and in the 15thc. The flint chancel is not rendered. Its chequered brick and flint E wall is 18thc., and the entire chancel appears to have been remodelled in the 19thc. It has a variety of windows (plain lancet, geometrical, Y-tracery and flowing) all of which have been renewed. There is a N organ room, also 19thc. The flint and chequered flushwork masonry of the W tower is not as high as the nave, but its plan is large and has heavy diagonal buttresses and a polygonal stair turret in the middle of the S wall, adding to the impression of bulk. The tower was apparently never built any higher than this. The 19thc. wooden bell stage has a gabled roof. Inside the church there is no chancel arch and the tower arch is tall and 15thc. The chancel retains its 14thc. sedilia, but the rest of it has been remodelled in the 19thc. Curiously the chancel roof is lower than the nave roof inside the church. The N and S doorways are described below. The former is blocked, and the latter has been remodelled and is under a tiny timber-framed porch.
- 130. St Mary, Walpole, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Mary's is a flint church with ashlar dressings consisting of a nave with a three-bay N aisle, chancel and W tower with a short spire. The church was rebuilt in 1878 and at first sight it appears to be all of that date, but the S nave wall includes a doorway with a 12thc. arch, and the chancel has pilaster strips suggesting 11-12thc. fabric. The S doorway is the only feature described here.
- 131. St John the Baptist, Wantisden, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St John's is a remote church standing in flat arable land in SE Suffolk, 6 miles E of Woodbridge. There is no village and no dwellings near the church; the nearest settlement being Tunstall, a mile to the N. Wantisden Hall, a 16thc. brick building, is 0.6 mile S of the church. There has apparently never been a village of Wantisden, and at the beginning of the Second World War the entire area was requisitioned as an airfield: the USAF Bentwaters base. It remained active during the Cold War, and was closed in 1993, but much remains to the W of the church. The church is significant in having one of only two coralline crag towers in the county (the other is at nearby Chillesford), a 15thc. structure with diagonal buttresses and a polygonal S bell stair whose top has been rebuilt without battlements. The nave and chancel are of mixed flint, pebbles and crag rubble. They are 12thc. and from that period they retain a narrow chancel arch, a N chancel window and a S nave doorway. The N doorway is later, plain and pointed, and neither doorway has a porch. The nave has a later medieval SE rood stair, and the other nave and chancel windows date from the 14thc. to 15thc. There is also a 12thc. font, unusual in being constructed of ashlar blocks.
- 132. St Mary Magdalene, Westerfield, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Westerfield is a village at the northern edge of Ipswich, where the town gives way to arable farmland. It clusters around a crossroads where a minor road cuts the B1077 that meanders N from Ipswich to Debenham and Eye. The church is on the lesser road, just E of the crossroads, and consists of an unaisled and mortar rendered nave and chancel in one, without a chancel arch, and a W tower. The nave and chancel windows all have two-light intersecting tracery ofc.1300 except for two 13thc chancel windows, the S one blocked. There is no S doorway; a 12thc. doorway in the normal position having been blocked in a major restoration of 1867, and its carved stones reset inside the church in the sill, arch and jambs of the window that replaced it. This window is a copy of others in the nave, and alongside remains the stoup, which would originally have been in the porch next to the doorway. Henry Davy's etching of the exterior in 1842 shows that the doorway was protected by a small embattled porch, described by David Elisha Davy in 1829 as being modern and of red brick. On the N side of the church is a flint Church Room, with a hall, vestry and kitchen. This was built in 1986-87 and provides access to the church through the N nave doorway. It replaced a brick schoolroom, added to the nave in 1840, which was successively a school, a Sunday school and a vestry before it was taken down in 1986. A vestry on the S side of the chancel was taken down in 1840 when the schoolroom was added. The W tower is of flint with diagonal buttresses at the W but none at the E. It has an embattled parapet with flushwork decoration. The tower may date fromc.1300, but its W doorway and window are 15thc. Its bell openings have lost their tracery. The interior is dominated by a magnificent hammerbeam roof, continuous over nave and chancel. The only 12thc work surviving here are voussoirs from the old S doorway, now reset in the SW nave window surrounds, and two carved stones reused in the exterior walls of the tower.
- 133. St Andrew, Westhall, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Andrew's is a flint church with a nave, S aisle, chancel and W tower. In fact the present S aisle is the original nave, and its smart W front, consisting of a doorway with a triple arch above, remains inside the early 14thc. W tower. A scar on the E wall of the tower indicates that the nave was originally taller and more steeply roofed. The 12thc. S doorway also remains in situ. An aisle was added to the N of the original nave in the 13thc., with an arcade of five bays, and was apparently widened, making it much wider than the original nave, in the later 14thc. The N nave doorway dates from this period. At this time the original chancel was abandoned and a new one attached to the N aisle. Signs of the original chancel arch remain on the exterior E wall of the present S aisle. A datestone (JW 1884) on this wall presumably refers to a restoration. Romanesque sculpture is found on the W and S doorways and the W window.
- 134. St Petronilla, Whepstead, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Whepstead stands on a low hill in the largely arable farmland of W Suffolk, some four miles S of the centre of Bury St Edmunds. The village is small, consisting of a few houses with outlying farms along the B1066 and its side roads; the church is on one of these minor roads W of the village centre. St Petronilla's has a nave, chancel and W tower. All windows of the nave and chancel are Y- or intersecting tracery ofc.1300, or other early 14thc. forms. The N and S nave doorways are 13thc.; the S under a knapped flint 19thc. porch, and the N now giving access from the church to a vestry. The nave is broad and bright, with a chancel arch having 12thc. jambs and a round head decorated with 19thc. neo-Romanesque chevron. There is a S rood stair set in the E reveal of the easternmost nave window. A scar on the E wall of the tower shows that the nave was originally taller. The 15thc. tower arch is tall and four-centred and a wooden gallery has been erected halfway up it. The tower is 15thc. too, and was repaired in 1582 (date on buttress). It has very broad E buttresses with a stair turret set in the angle of the SE buttress, diagonal W buttresses and an embattled parapet. It was apparently taller when built, and certainly had a spire but a storm in 1658 brought the spire down, and the battlements postdate that collapse. The church is entirely mortar rendered except for the S porch, the chancel E wall and the parapet of the tower, all of flint. The only Romanesque sculpture is found on the chancel arch.
- 135. St Mary, Wherstead, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Wherstead is one of the nine parishes of the Shotley peninsula, the neck of land between the Orwell and Stour estuaries in SE Suffolk. The peninsula belongs to the Sandlings, and the sandy soils support arable farming in a landscape that rises fairly steeply from the Orwell estuary in the E. Wherstead is now just outside the loop of the A14 that forms the southern and western sections of Ipswich's outer ring road, cutting through Wherstead Park before crossing the Orwell on the spectacular Orwell bridge. The village itself consists only of a few houses clustered close to the stable block of Wherstead Park, which is now occupied by the offices of EON Energy, the company that runs Powergen. The church lies between this cluster and the Hall, half a mile to the E. According to Laverton, 'Wherstead church stands on one edge of a very large rectangular embanked enclosure of unknown date, and nearby is a Roman site that might have some connection with the supposed Roman river crossing of Downham Bridge, but neither of these is visible except in aerial photographs.' The entire peninsula displays evidence of continuous settlement going back to the Neolithic period.
- 136. St Andrew, Wissett, Suffolk, England
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Parish church St Andrew's is a flint church consisting of a long unaisled nave with N and S doorways, the S under a 15thc. porch; a chancel with a N vestry, and a round W tower. Both doorways are 12thc. work, but the nave windows are Perpendicular. At the NE of the nave is a rood stair. The chancel is a rebuilding ofc.1800. The W tower has a plain, narrow arch towards the nave, narrow round-headed lancets at the level of the nave roof and oculi in the next storey. The oculi were discovered blocked and the N one reopened in 1977. The bell-openings are pointed and above them an added top storey has gargoyles and a battlemented parapet with flushwork merlons. Romanesque features described here are the two nave doorways and the tower arch.
- 137. St Mary, Wissington, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Wissington (also known, most notably on the signpost to the church, as Wiston) is a parish of dispersed houses and farms on the N side of the river Stour, which forms the border with Essex. It has no village centre, although there are a few houses and a farmhouse near the church. This stands on raised ground in a moated site alongside the farmhouse. St Mary's is a simple two-cell church with a rectangular nave and a lower, narrower chancel with an apsidal E end. The present apse and its arch are entirely 19thc., but built on 12thc. foundations; a view of 1832 shows the church with a flat E end. The S priest's doorway in the chancel straight bay is 19thc., but this bay also has small 12thc. lancets and its original chancel arch, elaborately carved with chevron archivolts and decorated nook-shafts. The nave has carved 12thc. N and S doorways; the S under a timber porch, and the N now inside the 19thc. vestry. Small round-headed lancets survive in the N and S nave walls, but all of the nook-shafted windows, in both nave and chancel, are 19thc. work. Over the W gable of the nave is a 19thc. timber bell-turret with a pyramid roof. The church is of flint, the exterior mortar rendered and the interior plastered, with the remains of 13thc.-15thc. wallpaintings in the nave. Four 12thc. corbels have been re-set in the interior and exterior walls; one over the chancel arch, one over the apse arch, and on the outside, one above each of the chancel straight bay windows. There are several loose stones, at present behind the pulpit. The only one with 12thc. carving is a nook-shaft base.
- 138. St Mary Magdalene, Withersdale, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Withersdale is nearly 3 miles E of Harleston and a mile and a half from the river Waveney, which marks the border with Norfolk. The church stands alongside the B1123 and the moated hall site, with a medieval farmhouse, is 500 yards (457 metres) to the S. The rest of the village has migrated W along the road towards Harleston, forming the settlement of Withersdale Street.
- 139. St Leonard, Wixoe, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Wixoe is a village in the Stour Valley on the Essex border E of Haverhill. St Leonard's has an aisleless nave and chancel in one, sharing a single roof and with no chancel arch. The nave walls are slightly thicker than the chancel (visible on the interior by a ridge in the wall at the position of the chancel step), and the mortar used in the flint cladding is yellower in the nave. There is a 19thc. vestry on the N side of the chancel. The nave has a modern timber west bell turret. The N and S nave doorways are 12thc., the N blocked and overgrown; the S protected by a 19thc. timber porch. The S chancel doorway is 19thc.
- 140. All Saints, Wordwell, Suffolk, England
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Parish church (redundant) Wordwell lies alongside the B1106 Bury St Edmunds to Brandon road, just over five miles N of the centre of Bury. The tiny village lies at the SE corner of the enormous coniferous plantation of the King's Forest, and consists of just the church, a few houses, Wordwell Hall and the hall farm. The living was abolished in the 18thc. and the rectory demolished in 1736; after that date the church was served by priests from neighbouring parishes until the parish was combined with that of West Stow.
- 141. St Mary, West Stow, Suffolk, England
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Parish church Discoveries of flint tools give evidence of Neolithic occupation of the area, and the remains of an Iron Age settlement and finds of Romano-British pottery attest to the continuity of its occupation until the 2ndc. AD. Some time in the mid-5thc., Anglo-Saxon settlers established a village here that remained in occupation until c.650. Around that time the settlement moved 1½ miles upriver to the present West Stow village site. The old site was abandoned, and cultivated as ploughland until the end of the 13thc., when a storm covered it with blown sand, effectively preserving the 5th.-7thc. village. From the mid-19thc. onwards, rich finds of early Anglo-Saxon grave goods were discovered in the area of the unsuspected village, but a major excavation was not undertaken until 1965-72, when a team headed by Stanley West uncovered most of the settlement. In 1972, West broached the idea of a reconstruction of the village on site, and this is now open to visitors as West Stow Anglo-Saxon village.
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